Perfect 10 - Brocken Challenge 2019

The Harz is a place of legend and mystery some made famous by Goethe in his Faust, others largely unknown outside of Germany.  After sixteen years, the Brocken-Challenge (BC) is slowly becoming a legendary winter ultramarathon.

The Brocken-Challenge is an 80 KM / 50 Mile winter charity ultramarathon.  The race course traverses over a demanding route with almost 2000 meters of elevation change from Göttingen to the summit of the Brocken, the highest peak in the Harz Mountain Range.  The race traditionally occurs on the second Saturday in February.  Registration for the race is managed through a lottery process which opens in early November.

My experience after ten years of running the BC have revealed that this is not your everyday ultra.  The weather has played a big part in this variety ranging from “tame” sunny weather, through rain, ice, snow to extreme cold, gale force winds and deep, driving snow.  These weather impacts have resulted in race course changes, usually leading to the addition of one to ten kilometers and additional elevation gain.  You can follow along with the weather on the Brocken summit with this webcam. It’s supposed to be a challenge, right?”

A big draw to the BC rests in its “raison d'etre”.  It is a charity event.  All starter fees go to charity.  The texture of this race fosters a deeper culture of friendship, community, giving, humanity, and introspection.  This culture also reflects one of conservation and awareness.  You will find that aid stations serve primarily organic, vegan fare.  This environment also fosters a climate of personal responsibility and well being.  Dress for the time of year and have additional gear with you.  I will wager a race slot with you that the weather will dramatically change.  And, carry your own beverage container – cups are not provided on the course! 

I joined the 2019 BC with mixed emotions and thought.  This was my tenth running.  Going in I had decided that this would be my last.  As in previous years my race started among friends, by the time we got to the “Entsafter” (A draining, five kilometer, slow climbing hill that was covered in ice this year.) I was running alone and had turned inward wrestling with this year’s race and reflecting on all of my previous BCs.  By the time I got to Jagdkopf my commitment not to run again was quickly fading.  I love this race.  I love the people, the culture, what it stands for and its test of limitations.

Like many other ultras the BC tests your limits.  It presents physical and mental challenges that you must work through to reach the Brocken summit.  It’s pretty obvious that you require a solid level of physical fitness to attempt this ultra.  As you journey into the depths of the Harz you will also require a high degree of mental fortitude.  A race strategy is necessary to address the terrain, weather and clock that is winding down.  Each aid station mandates a fresh decision to continue, and that decision takes resolve.

We started the 2019 BC in Göttingen with temperatures above freezing.  Although generally, overcast, there was no significant precipitation over the course of the day.  Most of the snow that had accumulated over the preceding weeks had melted until we got beyond Jagdkopf.  From here we made our way into the Harz with ever increasing amounts of slushy snow on the route.

It was a blast to arrive at the Brocken summit approach with temperatures well below freezing, gale force winds and driving snow.  (See portion at 02:05) 

A few statistics for those so inclined…

For the 2019 BC there were 450 applicants.  From those applicants 175 starters were drawn of which 20% were women and 42.9% were first time runners.  2019 finishers included 162 of which 18.5% were women and 42% were BC first timers.  Among the women runners Antje Müller came in at 9:48 while Florian Riechert was the men’s victor at 7:01.  Florian holds the BC all-time record at 6:33.  The record for the last finisher rests at 13:56.

2019 donations included 32,000 Euros! 

The decision to not apply in November for the 2020 Brocken-Challenge will be a tough one.  Until then I’ll reflect on how much I love this race and smile while thinking about its myriad of challenges.

Brocken-Challenge 2018

“From the power that binds all beings, that man frees himself who overcomes himself.” – Goethe

Goethe’s quote came home for me during my ninth running of the Brocken-Challenge ultramarathon.  The only way to end suffering is to overcome ourselves.

Other people and influences are catalysts of the suffering we carry within ourselves.  Suffering in this sense is another name for our inability to come to terms with life.  Accepting and embracing our circumstances delivers us to inner peace.  Although it seems to have taken me nine iterations to get here I had a wonderful time running and the pay off is something that I hope I can continue to carry with me.

Brocken-Challenge 2016 - VIII

“No!  No!  The adventures first, explanations take such a dreadful time.”  - Lewis Carroll

Oh, the dread of writing the race report…  I’d rather be out running the Brocken-Challenge (BC).  Since we’ve got to wait until 11 February 2017 to even consider that a possibility I’ll spend a moment and share my experiences with my eighth running of the BC.

A few words of introduction about the Brocken-Challenge...  The BC is first and foremost a charity event.  The costs associated with the race entry fee and various race goodies like the event tee-shirt are collected to benefit several specific organizations and functions.  The BC has been characterized as an “experience”, “the hardest run in northern Germany” (Norddeutscher Rundfunk), and last but not least as an adventure.  My experiences and adventures over the past eight years have been defined by weather extremes, somewhat different course routes, course distances, different means of returning to Göttingen (GOX) and so many other unpredictable factors.  You may have also read how I’ve described the BC as a “Family Affair”, and “Friendship Reunion”.  In the end it is all of this and much more.  It is simply a wonderful event that I look forward to over the course of my entire running year.

In 2016 we were graced with phenomenal weather conditions with temperatures just below or right at freezing, and blue skies and sunshine throughout most of the day.  The starting field was split right down the middle with fifty-percent veterans and fifty-percent “newbies”.  This split provided an opportunity to run with and see old friends and to meet new ones.  I spent the day running with an old friend, Lutz who was a newbie to the BC.

Photo Courtesy of Martin Woitynek

Much like the 2015 BC, I spent much of my winter not training.  Going in I knew that the rumbling going on in my gut was not pre-race butterflies – I was not mentally or physically prepared to run the 2016 BC.  Like many of you, I often struggle to find a balance between family, work and running.  This event is special and is not one you would want to DNS if there’s any chance of physically starting.  With these thoughts in mind I headed to GOX on Friday afternoon.  Still with a bit of trepidation that would last until we lined up at the starting gate, but also with much anticipation of what the day would bring.

My 2016 key take-aways:

- Enter the lottery for the 2017 Brocken-Challenge.
- Running an ultra is always funner when you run with a friend.  Lutz and I have been running a couple of years together and I attribute much of the great experience I had on Saturday to him.
- Distance is what you make of it.  This goes back to what I’ve mentioned here before and that is, “Never attempt an ultra as a whole.”  The right amount of motivation and training were absent for me going into the 2016 BC.  In order to accomplish the whole I broke the BC down into it its distinctive parts split up by aid stations.  Doing so allowed me to manage the whole without being overcome by the WHOLE.
- The Brocken-Challenge is less a race and more an event shared by friends that like to take part in this great event.
- There is significant truth in the Brocken-Challenge motto:  “The man who masters himself is delivered from the force that binds all creatures.” – Goethe  That quote captures the essence of adventure.

For the uninitiated and curious…

The Brocken-Challenge route travels from GOX to the summit of the Brocken Mountain over forest and farm roads, hiking and cross-country ski trails.  The route can vary each year based on the amount of snow in the Harz National Park.  The course is extremely well resourced with seven major aid stations and one water point.  Aid stations are found within the villages of Landolfshausen (10.9KM), Rollshausen (21.8KM), Rhumequelle (30.7KM) and Barbis (Dreymanns Muehle) (42.5KM).  From the half-way point at Barbis the course transitions into the ULTRA portion of the event with a water point at Jagdkopf (53.8KM) and aid stations at  Lausebuche (63.1KM), Koenigskrug (68.5KM), Oderbrueck (72.4KM) before proceeding to the finish line on the summit of the Brocken.  The leg between Barbis – Jagkopf – Lausebuche is best characterized as a Gut Check  as the Jagdkopf is only accessable by foot with no opportunity to drop at this water point if you were to become so inclined.

The Brocken, 1142 meters or 3747 feet, is the easternmost mountain in Northern Germany and is surrounded by the Harz National Park.  The mountain provides a unique terrain feature that is completely exposed to the North German Plain and the weather patterns that transition over it.  This exposure contributes to a microclimate that resembles that of mountains of 2,000 meters or higher.  The summit above the tree line tends to have snow cover from September to May and fog enshrods it for up to 300 days a year.  The mean annual temperature is only 2.9C with the highest recorded temperature measured at 29C on 20 AUG 2012 and the lowest recorded on 1 FEB 1956 at -28.4C.  In 1973 the summit was covered in snow for 205 days of the year.    The Brocken was ensrowded in fog for 330 days in 1958.  The highest wind speed across the summit was measured at 263 km/h on 24 November 1984.  Traveling along a straight line east, the next prominent geographic terrain feature of any signifcance are the Ural Mountains in Russia!

For the statisticians out there…

In November at the time of registration there were 448 lottery applications.  On 13 February there were 177 starters including starter number 4x4, Clarkson (Runner in the middle below).  Eighteen percent of these starters were women.  Of these starters 162 finished (91.5%).

Photo Courtesy of Silke Reinecke  

The top finishers included Nicole Friedrich in 8:38 and Florian Reichert in 6:52!

2016 donations set a new record totaling more than 25,000 Euro.  These funds will benefit Hospiz an der Lutter in Göttingen, Göttingen Hilft, From Brocken to Everest – Wir helfen Nepal!, Jugendhilfe Sued-Niedersachsen, and Jedes Training Zaehlt.

At the last aid station at Oderbruck (72.4KM) one of the volunteers thanked me for running the BC.  I turned her compliment on her and thanked her for supporting us.  BC aid stations and so much more are managed and accomplished by volunteers that not only give up their Saturday to stand around in often extremely uncomfortable weather, but go to extremes to wait on finicky runners.  This is a unique group of people that make this a superior event.  My personal thanks to each and every member of the BC team in front of and behind the scenes.  This would not be such a special event without you.

The Essence of Life

“There is nothing quite so gentle, deep and irrational as running – and nothing quite so savage, so wild.”  - Bernd Heinrich

So I have to admit…  I’ve been thinking about my race report for the 2015 Brocken-Challenge (BC) since I headed to Göttingen the morning of 13 February.  Going into the 2015 BC I had run this superlative event six times and enjoyed each occasion immensely.  So my thoughts have been, “where do you go with this report after the seventh turn?  What more can I add other than a summary of the event and perhaps some statistics on the winners and finishers?”  As I sit here and type I continue to struggle with where this report is going to go.  If you care to; let’s wander a bit…

Going into the 2015 BC I was not prepared to run.  As I mentioned in an earlier post I am suffering from an insertional Achilles tendinopathy injury.  Work and life in general has been a bear since I ran my last ultra in December.  I organized my kit for the BC two weekends prior to the event as I would have no time or mental capacity to do so at the last minute.   Given the Achilles niggle I have and my inability to relax and focus on the BC I seriously considered not starting.  If you’ve read any of my previous BC reports that would come as a surprise as the BC is on my list of “Must Do” events each year.  I made my final decision to run Friday morning committing to myself as I got in the car that I would unwind from the rest of my life as soon as we started running Saturday morning.

“Movement is the essence of life.” - Heinrich

In 2015 I arrived in Göttingen much earlier than in previous years to meet with Aschu who was kind enough to put me up for a night or two.  This early arrival enabled the opportunity to also arrive at the Check-in/Briefing site way ahead of schedule.  After feebly “helping” out a bit I adjourned to a seating area in the foyer of the hall where we were located.  This area in which ultimately found a rather large group of us sitting became referred to as the “BC Lounge”.  We were all sitting facing the stairwell where everyone had to enter to get checked in and it became a place to reunite, chill, talk about things runners talk about (shoes, equipment, physical well being, race plans, etc.) and share many laughs.  Following the race briefing which introduced the event, the organization, beneficiaries, and a Carnival like run down of the race itself, Aschu and I headed back to his place.

Thankfully, Friday evening included a simple, but delicious (seriously) dinner and much delightful discussion with Aschu.  We collectively went through our gear one last time and braced for a restless pre-race evening.  Saturday morning I was relieved that I had gotten a good night’s sleep on Thursday night as I was hyped up and did not sleep well Friday.  We had set alarms for 0400, but I think that both of us were awake and ready to go well before the alarm rang.  After a few cups of Yogi tea and a banana to knock the remnants of the night we set out for the BC start.

We arrived at the old Dance Hall at Kehr and the start location as breakfast was cranking up and runners were signing in.  Over the past seven years I’ve admired the volunteers and runners that brave the cold of this old Dance Hall (It’s really more like a barn.), particularly the volunteers led by Juliette Mallison.  2015’s breakfast layout was exceptional.  We were even treated to portable heaters which drew crowds of runners to them much like bar patrons to bistro tables with dishes of peanuts.  The breakfast buffet was second to none with my favorite including the fresh fruit salad and cereal.  Breakfast was another opportunity to connect with friends and acquaintances.  It was great to see Michael, Sabine, Uli, Werner and many others.  Werner, you’re insane running the BC on Valentines Day and your anniversary to boot!  Gutsy my friend.  Very gutsy!  Before I knew it, it was time to head outside to assemble to get ready for the 0600 start.

Photo courtesy of Ralph Benz

I think that many people, particularly the BC uninitiated, run the BC and other events of this nature as purely athletic events that offer an extreme test of endurance.  The draw to the distance and the challenge of a winter ultra were without a doubt the reason I signed up for my first BCs in 2009 and 2010. The BC is certainly that, but there’s more.  I view ultrarunning as a shift in paradigms that affords an opportunity to experience the wild, tribal and ascetic way of life we have generally become numb to in our “modern” world.  Endurance running is one of the few remaining doors through which we can step and embrace risk in the raw.  It is as the great Alpinist, Lionel Terray once wrote, “… these are moments of exultation and bliss, which in the monotonous, materialistic existence of modern times nothing else can approach…”

Photo courtesy of Michael Hartmann

Terray’s words rang true throughout my 2015 BC experience.  Unlike previous years, I can’t say that I had to fight through any particular low points of pain, suffering or mental anguish.  Yes, there were low points...

The section from Wasserheide along the Steinaer Bach leading up to the wonderful aid station at Jagkopf.  But these periods were off set by the incredible weather and the opportunity to spend some time alone and with friends like Rolli.

During my last few running seasons I have learned much about myself, running and life for that matter.  Key truths for me include:

-  Never attempt an ultra as a whole.  Instead, you must view it in its parts or elements, thinking only as far ahead as the next aid station.  Doing so allows you to manage the whole without being overcome by the WHOLE.

-  To manage an ultra in its parts is to remain in the present.  This presence of mind allows me to slip out of the monotony of life and into the bliss that Terray so aptly described from his experiences in the mountains.

-  Negativity breeds negativity in both the psychological and physical sense.  For me, even the smallest, most quaint negative thought streams impact my well being.  I actually work to cast negative thoughts from my mind like little clouds.  I attempt to accept them for what they are and move on.  Only so am I able to remain focused on my goal and the presence of the moment.

-  I have found that my mental and physical state are driven by the energy in my tank.  During an ultra I require a steady intake of both fluids and fuel.  Although the BC offers a delightful variety of organic, vegan fare, I found that I could not get what was offered in 2015 to either fuel me, much less stay down.  I literally blew up at the half way point.  I felt like a new man after emptying my gut.  From Barbis forward I stuck with my own gels and energy bars and drank the bouillon soup and ate apples over the course of the rest of the race. 

My final push from Oderbrueck (72.4KM) to the Brocken summit was dedicated to James Sedberry.  James was a lifelong friend that lived through an eternity of life with multiple sclerosis.  He passed away on 7 January 2015.  James’ childhood nickname was “Happy” as he was never without a smile.  Happy was in his element outside.  I think he would have enjoyed the Harz much like I do if not more.  The memory of his smile carried me the last 7.5 kilometers to the finish line.

The 2015 Race…
Registration for the 2015 BC opened in early November 2014 via a lottery.  Application to the lottery was submitted via the BC web site.  Results of this lottery were published on the first of December 2014.

Weather conditions leading up to the 2015 were promising with a good bit of snow in late December into January.  Low temperatures were consistent almost up to the week prior to the BC.  A warming trend occurred this last week before the event causing significant snow melt below 300 meters.  The snow and ice line retreated primarily into the Harz National Park after the mid-point aid station.  On race day temperatures hovered just at freezing with slightly colder temperatures beyond Jagkopf.  Blue skies and sunshine were to rule the day on the 14th.

Photo courtesy of Martin Woitynek

On 14 February 2015 170 BC starters lined up at Hainholzhof (Kehr) in Göttingen to give the course a go; 160 runners finished!  Antje Mueller of Rötha won the women’s category with a blistering 8:52 finish.  Florian Reichert of Göttingen set a new men’s course record in 6:33!  I had a sensational day besting my 2013 time by 32 minutes in 11:21.

Considering Running?
 
The Brocken-Challenge is a winter charity ultramarathon of approximately 80 – 85KM with a positive change of 1900 meters in altitude that takes place over a mixed surface course between the city of Göttingen and the finish on the Brocken Summit (1142m) in the Harz. All donations for the BC benefit a number of local, regional and international organizations details of which can be found here.

The BC route travels over farm roads, forest, hiking and cross-country ski trails.  The route varies each year based on the amount of snow in the Harz National Park.  The course originates in Göttingen and passes checkpoints/aid stations at Landolfshausen (10.9KM), Rollshausen (21.8KM), Rhumequelle (30.7KM) and Barbis (Dreymanns Muehle) (42.5KM) over what is a large bowl like terrain feature.  The ULTRA in the BC begins at Barbis where the course enters the Harz National Park passing through aid stations at Jagkopf (53.8KM), Lausebuche (63.1KM), Koenigskrug (68.5KM), Oderbrueck (72.4KM) before proceeding to the finish line on the summit of the Brocken.  The leg between Barbis – Jagkopf – Lausebuche is best characterized as the Gut Check of the entire course as the Jagkopf is only accessable by foot with no opportunity to drop at this aid station if you were to become so inclined.

The Brocken, the easternmost mountain in Northern Germany is surrounded by the Harz National Park.  The mountain illustrates a unique terrain feature in that it is completely exposed to the North German Plain.  Largely based on this exporsure its microclimate resembles that of mountains of 2,000 meters or higher.  The Brocken rises above the tree line and experiences extreme temperature and climate impacts.  The highest recorded temperature was 28.2C on 12 AUG 2003 and the lowest temperature was recorded on 1 FEB 1956 at -28.4C.  In 1973 the summit was covered in snow for 205 days of the year.    The Brocken was ensrowded in fog for 330 days in 1958.  Traveling along a straight line east, the next prominent geographic elevation change is in the Ural Mountains!  (WIKI URL)
 
BC organization, volunteer support and aid stations are simply among the best I’ve experienced particularly when you consider that all of this is accomplished via volunteers and donations.  Aid stations are second to none and have been characterized as the Longest Organic Food Convention in the World.
 
The 2016 Brocken Challenge date is set for 13 FEB 2016.  My calendar is marked and I’m watching for when applications for the 2015 lottery will be taken.  Count me in!

Brocken-Challenge a Community Affair

Picking up from last year…

I have been planning to sign up for the 2015 Brocken-Challenge (BC) since 2 November 2013!  That should give you a pretty good idea of what a great event the BC is.  Before I get carried away with anticipation I should probably share a little about the 2014 BC and how we got to this point.

On 1 November 2013 the organization team of the BC represented by the Ausdauersport für Menschlichkeit e.V., Göttingen (ASFM) club opened an application window for the 2014 race.  The application process featured the requirement to write an e-mail describing why the applicant should gain an invitation to participate.  After this window closed all 355 applications were placed into a lottery to fill the 150 available runner spots.  Although obviously burdensome on the organizational team this process is much more fair and effective compared with the previous process of a 1 December midnight on-line application which in 2012 filled within ten minutes.

My 2012 lucky streak continued with the winning of a lottery slot to participate in the 2014 BC.  If the application process to run remains the same for the 2015 event I certainly plan on sending in an application for the lottery.  The way I see I’ve got a little less than a year to figure out what I should include in my application to run my seventh BC.

So you may be asking, “Why the excitement about this race?  Why do you keep going back year after year?”  Beyond jingles, banners or other mottos the ASFM truly embraces and fosters a sense of community.  In fact, in their description of the event they mention, “The event lives from a sense of spirit.  One which includes the ability to pursue an endurance sport we all enjoy in the pursuit of helping others that are less fortunate than ourselves.”

My interest and draw to this event goes beyond something that is only altruistic.  Although certainly central to my motivation, I embrace the spirit associated with the BC.  That spirit is one of kinship, endurance, courage, determination, patience and humility.  All of which you must have in order to successfully run the approximate 80KMs or 50 miles leading to a summit of northern Germany’s highest mountain, the Brocken. 

The 2014 Race

Winter weather conditions in Germany were unseasonably mild as compared to previous years.  There was little to no snow.  In fact the last snow fall of any consequence had occurred almost three weeks prior to the event.  Snow accumulation as of 21 January was dramatically different with 138cm on the ground in 2012 and 4cm in 2014.  All told the weather on race day was perfect for a winter run.  Temperatures were at or slightly above freezing.  Although the day started clear, clouds slowly moved in, but there was no rain throughout the day.  We did however experience a wonderful snow storm the last five or so kilometers up the Brocken and at its summit.  The 2014 BC course was largely snow and ice free until Jagdkopf (KM 53).  The course was covered in snow and ice starting at KM 60 through the finish line.

 

165 runners started at 0600 on 8 February with 159 finishing.  These figures reflect a new finisher record of 96.4%.  2014 also saw the previous women’s and men’s course records shattered.  Gabriele Kenkenberg of Kriftel set the new women’s record at 8:35 while Florian Reichert of Göttingen set the new men’s record at 6:44!  Finally a new single year donation record was set at 22,000 Euro benefiting five local and overseas beneficiaries.

2014 also saw me run a personal BC best in 10:11, an eighteen minute improvement over my 2011 time.  I think this PB was based on the weather and course conditions, the training leading up to this year’s BC and my close watch on what I took in for energy.  Like most folks my age I know that I could have trained more, but the demands of work and other responsibilities prevented me from doing so.

Personal highlights from the 2014 BC are similar to those I mentioned in 2013.  The food at breakfast and over the course of the BC is simply remarkable.  I know of no other race that offers such a smorgasbord of vegetarian and vegan food geared towards endurance athletes. Pre-race activities the evening prior to the BC are more like a class reunion rather than race check in and a briefing.  Breakfast starts at 0500 on Saturday and it also serves as an opportunity to get together with friends over a cup of coffee.  Running with old friends and acquaintances is always wonderful.  Meeting and making new friends over the course of a day like the BC is a gift.  Like 2012 I had planned to meet my Brocken Ramp partner Werner near the ramp, but that did not work out for a second year in a row.  The get together after completing the BC on the summit is fantastic.  It’s great to relax; eat; drink a Weissbier and socialize.  “Donny Please!”  I’ll be working on a new PB to get to the summit even earlier next year.  Werner and I were able to meet up in the Brockenwirt and chatted for the hour and half walk back to Schierke.  It’s always a pleasure to get caught up on the way down.  Like a class reunion, the spirit of the BC affords that feeling of “just having seen someone” when in fact you’ve not seen them in over a year.

   

Considering Running?

The BC is about charity.  It’s about community.  It’s about friendship.  And, it’s about enduring over a course known to be “Cold – Hard – Beautiful”.  The 80KM course is a physically challenging combination of roads, farm trail and single track leading up to the summit of Germany’s 1140m Brocken Mountain.  Aid stations at approximately every ten kilometers serviced by committed and very motivated volunteers make the race a perfect start for an ultra year.  This is no “gimme”.  North German Broadcasting (NDR) calls the Brocken-Challenge, “The hardest race of the North”.  You must train and train wisely to finish.  The BC will challenge you physically, mentally and perhaps even spiritually.  I’ll be back in 2015.  Hope to see you out there!