Ramble On… 2017 Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail

Leaves are falling all around, it’s time I was on my way
Thanks to you, I’m much obliged for such a pleasant stay
But now it’s time for me to go.  The autumn moon lights my way…

Ramble On…

Led Zeppelin’s “Ramble On” provides a perfect introduction for the Pfälzer Weinsteig 100 Mile Ultratrail Race Event.  2017 marked the fourth running of what has become a fall ultratrail classic in the Pfälz in Germany.

This year’s Pfälzer Weinsteig fell on the weekend of 13 October.  The weather here in Germany leading up to the Weinsteig was simply amazing with mild temperatures, lots of sunshine and no rain.  Previous cooler weather and rain provided a beautiful tapestry of fall color.

The Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail takes place in southwestern Germany in the Pfälz, a region known for its vineyards, sandstone mountains and the culinary delicacy “sow stomach”.  A good third of the Pfälz is covered by the Pfälzerwald, Germany’s largest contiguous forested area.  The Pfälzer Weinsteig is in itself a award winning hiking trail that traces the mountainous backbone of the Pfälz.    
The Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail is a one hundred mile invitational trail race.  The race starts at the Deutsches Weintor in Schweigen-Rechtenbach and finishes at the Sport Club in Obersülzen.  The race is open for thirty-four hours with racers further challenged by relatively tight aid station cut offs.  A one hundred mile race poses enough challenges of its own simply given the distance.  What sets the mark here is the combination of the distance and delightful elevation change that occurs over the course.  There are 5,600 meters or 18,372 feet of elevation to climb and descend.  The Pfälzer Weinsteig travels along the sandstone mountain backbone of the central Pfälzerwald.  The course route is marked with red and white hiking trail markings.  These markings are however, a challenge to find and see in the darkness.  The event is semi-antonymous from a support perspective with aid stations situated twenty to thirty kilometers apart.  There are a number of additional unmanned water points and three deliberate check points that ensure that runners remain on course.  Because of my lack of familiarity with the area I was surprised to learn that the combination of the trail, distance, weather, elevation and other environmental factors contribute to a less than fifty-percent finisher rate on the Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail.

(Source: Wikipedia.  Accessed 171022)

I arrived in Obersülzen on Friday afternoon wound up because of work, the horrific traffic conditions on the German roads and this being my first attempt at the Pfälzer Weinsteig.  Greetings from old friends and new ensured that any trepidation was quickly whisked away.

Friday evening we got settled into the Sports Club in Obersülzen where a number of us would attempt to get a few winks of sleep between the inevitable snoring.  After setting up our quarters for the night we drifted to the restaurant and bar area to enjoy a bit of pre-race conversation, find a seat for the race briefing and dinner.  I was pleasantly surprised to see Simon, Elke and Wolfraum whom I’d not seen in what seems like ages.  We had dinner together and talked about the upcoming adventure.  I didn’t hang long Friday evening as I wanted to get a head start on getting my race equipment ready and intuition told me that I would pull the lucky straw and stay awake next to the loudest snorer – fact!  I should buy a lottery ticket with this kind of intuition.

Saturday morning could not have come soon enough…  I was up shortly before 0400 to finalize my equipment and have a bit of breakfast before getting on the bus to travel south to Schweigen-Rechtenbach and our start.  I road the bus to Schweigen-Rechtenbach seated next to and talking with Elke, but was uncertain how I was going approach the next thirty-four hours and with whom I might run.  In the early morning darkness and chasing the need to pee really badly I lost Elke, but found Simon again.  And so…  

The 0700 Pfälzer Weinsteig 100 Mile Ultratrail start found Simon and I running together.  Simon and I had last spent any time together back in 2015 so this was a great opportunity to get caught back up and enjoy the start of a great race weekend.  We got caught up on the last couple of years and talked about loss, family, work, shoes, dream races and all the things that runners talk about when they run.

Simon and I got split up because of one of my many pee breaks – the coffee had made its way through me.  After I stopped for an alcohol free hefeweissen in a beer garden Elke and I teamed up at the second aid station and were to remain together for the remainder of the race.

(Photo:  Laufticker.de)

(Photo:  Laufticker.de)

(Photo:  Laufticker.de)

 Elke and I shared a tremendous adventure as the kilometers and unfolded under foot.  Athletes like she and Karen who sometimes trailed us, but generally led us, blow me away.  Elke and I made a terrific team that I hope to one day match back up again.  Although, she never admitted it, I hope that I was never rude or super negative.  Elke, if you’re reading this – please forgive me again for my propensity to “luft”.  There are things that happen on the trail that should stay out there on the trail (smile).

A hundred miles is a fickle playmate.  Running a hundred miles is joyful; peaceful; powerful; and at times, simple bliss…  In the blink of an eye the magic of 100 miles will shift and become pain; stress; sadness; darkness…  My darkness usually occurs, well, in the dark.  It’s in the hours after two in the morning that I slip into headlamp hypnosis and go to my deep dark place.  It’s here that I battle with suffering and frankly, the edge of sanity.  (Elke, forgive me again if I was talking in my sleep.  Although you and I were physically alone, I swear that there was a third runner with us that drifted in and out of my reality.)

Thich Nhat Hanh teaches that suffering brings about understanding and compassion, which are the true foundations of happiness.  For me this thought embodies part of the magic of trail running and pushing out to one hundred miles and beyond.

(Photo:  Christine Bruhn)

Sunday morning’s dawn saw the departure of my additional running mate and the passing of darkness.  As dawn approached we found ourselves shy of Deidesheim and running into a dense fog that effectively denied us the sun.  This was not necessarily a bad thing as it motivated us to return to elevation and the sun.

My outlook improved dramatically after we put Deidesheim and Bad Durkheim behind us.  I don’t know where it came from, but this is where I caught my second wind.  Aid station five was a wonderful stop.  I don’t know if I’ve ever been that completely pampered in an aid station.  Many thanks to the gentlemen that made me multiple sandwiches (bread, lots of butter, salt, meat spread and pickles.  Fantastic!) and the alcohol free hefeweissen for breakfast!  Oh – And the heated toilet paper was pure bliss!  Frank and his volunteer teammates in aid station six were also fantastic.  I wish that we could have stayed longer, but Elke and I had a rendezvous with a finish.

The last ten kilometers…  All down hill!  Wait…  No, the distance of ten kilometers in Pfalz is actually known as thirteen kilometers with hills elsewhere in the world.  All good…

Rolling into the stadium in Obersülzen was fantastic.  Günther greeted us like royalty and ran the final loop around the football field with us oblivious to the football game that was playing out its final few minutes.

(Photo:  Jürgen Baumann)

In 2017 Max Kirschbaum and Bianca Logé rocked the Pfälzer Weinsteig finishing in 20:52 and 22:58.  Simply phenomenal performances over this challenging, yet obviously, very runnable course.  Elke and I finished in a very proud 33:42! 

The Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail is a truly amazing event.  I am deeply impressed by its warm and friendly atmosphere.  Günther and Christine Bruhn are the hosts, race directors, logisticians, coaches, volunteer coordinators and just down right wonderful people.  One of my favorite things about running trail and endurance events is being among the other runners on the same journey.  Many thanks to all of the people that made the Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail possible.  Race volunteers and people that work aid stations blow me away.  To see you working a station for twelve – twenty-four hours is incredible.  Chapeau!

(Photo:  Jürgen Baumann)

Got no time for spreadin’ roots, the time has come to be gone
And to our health we drank a thousand times, it’s time to ramble on…

The Runners - A Deeper State of Consciousness

One of the Reasons Why...

Hexenstieg Ultra 2014 – Heaven and Hell

The lover of life’s not a sinner
The ending is just a beginning
The closer you get to the meaning
The sooner you’ll know that you’re dreaming
So it’s on and on and on, oh it’ on and on and on
It goes on and on and on, Heaven and Hell…
 

Black Sabbath – Ronnie James Dio

The Hexenstieg Ultra is the brain child of Michael Frenz (Der Hexer) and generally follows the course of the Hexenstieg (Witch’s Trail or in German the Harzer Hexenstieg) hiking trail.  The trail runs from Osterode through the Harz Mountains, over its highest peak, the Brocken, to Thale and back to Osterode.  For casual hikers the trail is approximately 100km in length ending in Thale.  For the Hexenstieg Ultra runners the trail turns around at Thale and courses back to Osterode for a total of 216km or 135 miles.

From Osterode to Clausthal-Zellerfeld the Hexenstieg courses along the Upper Harz Ponds.  The ponds are part of a cultural monument of the former mining industry of the Harz, known as the Upper Harz Water Regale.  The Regale is a system of dams, reservoirs, ditches and other structures, much of which were built from the 16th to 19th centuries to divert and store water that drove the water wheels of the mines in the Upper Harz region of Germany.  The Upper Harz Water Regale is one of the largest and most important historic mining water management systems in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  As you might imagine, a tremendous trail system that is the perfect setting for an ultra!

25 April 2014, marked the third annual Hexenstieg.  This ultra is designed to challenge runners with its distance over a broad mix of hiking trails, single track, and farm roads that traverse a wide range of terrain.  In addition to the distance and terrain the Upper Harz is known for its unstable and harsh weather conditions.  In April the weather can typically range from spring and summer temperatures to winter weather with snow, wind and rain.  Mother Nature smiled on the Hexenstieg runners in 2014 gracing us with mild temperatures, sunshine, several hours of light spring rain and wind and cool temperatures at night with lows around 3C.

Friday morning we started with forty runners.  Stefan Beckmann, Oliver Schoiber, and Michael Wagner led early and would dominate the race throughout the next thirty-plus hours.  Over the course of the event we lost eleven runners to various issues and at various distances, although thankfully there were no serious injuries or accidents.  Stefan and Oliver finished the race together for a tied first place in 31:39.  The women’s winner was Bianka Schwede who finished in 41:42.  Bianka’s amazing accomplishment is further highlighted by her women’s win of the Jurastieg Ultra (230KM) two weeks prior in 40:42! 

As the bit of Black Sabbath’s “Heaven and Hell” highlights above my race was just that…  Heaven and Hell.  The Hexenstieg and Harz region are two of my favorite locales in Germany.  The Brocken and the surrounding environs are magical to travel through.  In my mind this area is much like what I imagine Tolkien’s Middle Earth to be like.  Running along the Upper Harz Water Regale you expect to bump into a group of Dwarves finishing up a days work below in the mines.

This year I started my race intentionally at a very slow pace.  216-plus kilometers are a long way to go in one running…  I spent most, if not all of the race running with Lutz Kalitzsch.  Lutz and I have known and raced with one another for several years.  Joining us over the next couple of days were Ulrich Faust, Andreas Rumpelt and a couple of others.  Unfortunately, Ulrich had a tough time with GI issues and was forced to drop about half way into the race.  Andreas was to finish with Lutz and I.  Although an ultra undertaking is a singularly personal experience and endeavor, it’s always nice to work through the inevitable challenges in a group.  We agreed to go the distance together and enjoyed many laughs, getting to know one another and the other emotions and challenges that go along with crossing Heaven and Hell.

Highpoints of my race included a number of different locations and experiences.  Jens Habich and his crew from Adrenalintours in Clausthal-Zellerfeld (First and last Aid Station) were simply fantastic.  The single track course near the Wolfswarte and the valley to the east of Quitschenberg is a trail runners paradise!  The Brocken!  One word:  Magical.  Ruebelad, the Gasthaus, Tannegrund – An alcohol free Hefeweizen never tasted better!  The “High Moor” that surrounds the area around the Oderteich is simply a dreamscape.

And yes…  There were low points.  The night, no moon, a headlamp and kilometers and kilometers to go…  The little arch of light that a headlamp makes in front of an ultra runner can hypnotically narrow your world and thoughts in the deep of the night.  The challenge at this point is to avoid any negative thoughts.  For me, the simplest negativity can lead to a rapid slide into a dark morass that is hard to get back out of particularly if sunrise is a long way off.  I also learned that I can’t allow myself to think about the finish until I’ve gone through the last aid station and am headed in.  To consider it any earlier leads to frustration.  Follow me for a minute…

“When I finish I’m going to take a shower and get that massage.  I’ll drink a beer and sleep…  There are only XXkm left until then – you got this.  Shit, how many kilometers are left?  My knee hurts…  If I could get a message now my knee would stop hurting and I could get something to eat.  And, go to sleep…  This sucks.  This is hell.  Why am I doing this?  I have nothing to prove to anyone.  Damn I’m cold…  I could drop at the next aid station and get back before everyone else to get a shower and something to eat.  (Stop!  Focus on your mantra.  Screw that mantra!  It’s stupid anyway.)  I’ve got to catch a train tomorrow morning at 1100 which means if I dropped now I could get at least five hours of uninterrupted sleep.  Damn I’m tired.  I wish these guys would stop talking to me…  I don’t want to talk.  Don’t they know I’m damn tired?  These guys don’t care if I drop at the next aid station; they’d be rid of me and I could sleep!  (What was your mantra?  I don’t remember.  It was stupid anyway…)”
  
DON’T CONSIDER THE FINISH until you’re headed there after the last aid station.  I was able to manage the time, distance and sleeplessness by breaking the race down into whichever current leg we were on, running aid station to aid station, breaking the event down into manageable portions.

And in the end.  After 46:45…  I applied a bit of sound advice from an old friend.  Nothing beats a Hefeweizen and a dribble of a fine spirit to crown the event.  

Race headquarters in 2014 was again located at Stefan Zirbus’ Hotel Harzer Hof in Osterode.  Stefan and his team bent over backwards to accommodate the wants and needs of the Hexenstieg event.  A big thanks for all of your support Stefan!  I hope to get back out to the Harzer Hof again in the not too distant future.

Race support was generated solely by race volunteers.  In this case they are all friends of the event, family members and friends of runners.  This group demonstrated the true nature of “volunteerism” as they too were connected with the event.  I appreciate each and everyone one of the supporters and could not have finished without them.  

I’ve written and said this before…  Each event I’ve run in that was hosted by Michael Frenz has been a challenging yet rewarding success.  As time and experience unfold each subsequent event gets better – the 2014 Hexenstieg Ultra was no exception.  Micha’s events are minimally supported.  Although you are outfitted with a GPS track, road book and map there are no specific route markings and the distance between aid stations can be very challenging.  I strongly recommend Micha’s events, but you should go into them knowing that you will be running on your previous training and experience.  It’s a very singular experience. 

The Hexenstieg Ultra 2014 was a super event.  Nothing failed on organization, volunteers, friends, challenges and fun.  Count me in for 2015!

The Path

Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail...

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

55 Things

Chris Kostman is so right...

Have an amazing day!

Coming Down

off of that high that follows an exceptionally good race.  On 7 July 2012 I participated in the sixth running of the thüringenULTRA.  I’m excited to report that the TU is among the top events I’ve participated in this year.

Precipitation peaks in Germany in the summer months with humidity levels high and chances of daily afternoon showers.  July 2012 was no exception.  During the last few days leading up to the TU, Race Director Gunter Rothe reported steady rainfall, mud and the occasional downed tree over the course of the TU.  The weather forecast for 6 – 7 July called for thunderstorms into the evening of 6 July and sunshine on Saturday.  As things turned out we enjoyed moderate temperatures and largely overcast skies throughout much of the day with late afternoon sunshine – perfect conditions for a 100KM race in central Germany.

Hosted by Lauffeuer Fröttstädt the thüringenULTRA is a challenging 100KM ultra with its start and finish in the small village of Fröttstädt, Germany.  The race course passes along a circular route through the Thüringer-Wald  traversing the Rennsteig on two occasions; and running over 2150 heart pounding meters of elevation change.  Lauffeuer also offers two team relay races (two-man x 50KM or four-man x 25KM) as part of the overall event.  There was a good turn out for all of these events this year.

Initial reports show that there were 192 runners that started the 2012 TU with 183 finishers.  The overall winner was Marcus Baldauf running an 8:42:50 with Ines Melzer winning the women’s category with in 11:02:10.  Gunter’s 2012 changes to the race course nor the days of rain prior didn’t seem to slow the field even though these changes included some challenging climbs.  I actually prefer the new route as it keeps you in the woods longer; moving over forest trails and single track.

As in past years the race volunteers that supported the 2012 TU in the race start and finish area, backside support and at each of the check/support points were simply fantastic.  The sixteen support points were outstanding with a virtual cornucopia of beverages and food.  Selections included pretzel sticks/rings, buttered toast, chocolate, liverwurst on toast, apple slices, bananas, water, tea, soup broth, isotonic sports drink, cola and beer among much more.  I usually struggle with the overwhelming amount of sweets offered at many races.  With its wide variety and plentiful selection the thüringenULTRA is the best supported event I’ve run.

A special thanks goes out to Team 95 at the support point at 95KM.  Team 95 provided the highlight of my 2012 TU!  Running down the road to be greeted by name and then to hear, as requested AC/DC’s “For Those About to Rock” was absolutely fantastic!  Any physical pain or negative mental chatter I was having was literally blown away by these guys.  Team 95 carried me over the last 5K of the race with a smile on my face and memories of an incredible day!

Race logistics are spot on.  A description of the event, news and much more are located on the ThüringenULTRA web site.  Participation in the 100K event is very afforable particullarly with early registration.  Registration is possible on-line via SPORTident and in 2012 cost between 45 and 60 Euros (price increases as the race date draws near) for the 100KM event.  The registration fee included a starter packet, pre-race pasta meal and beverage, chip rental, finisher t-shirt, certificate and post-race meal.  There are lodging options for all tastes and needs within the Fröttstädt area.  In the past we’ve stayed in local hotels.  This year I tried camping in the start/finish area and am delighted to report that it was great.  Getting to Fröttstädt is relatively easy via ground, rail or air.  Specific travel information is available via the TU web site.

Each year the small club of Lauffeuer virtually doubles the population of Fröttstädt by more than 400 people with its ThüringenULTRA.  The TU includes a small starter field, is fast paced, and is a very well organized and hosted 100KM ultra event.  Gunter and Co. count me for my fifth star in 2013!

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 After Action Review

This portion of the Hexenstieg 2012 race report is focused on after action type thoughts, ideas and issues.  I’m going to bounce around a bit, but want to share these thoughts.

Preparation – Was I prepared for the 200KM of the Hexenstieg?  This is a tough question to answer. My results in finishing indicate that I was in fact at least minimally physically ready.  I do however consider myself a very juvenile 100 miler having only completed two.  I know that I could have and will increase the number of endurance training events I perform.  I am going to continue to extend my shorter runs to a regular minimum of 13KM and tie in at least one four to six hour run per month.  Leading up to the Hexer I only got in two of these if you discount the 2012 Brocken Challenge and the Saaletal Marathons.  I am pleased with the training miles I’ve put in the bank over the past year or so.  I could not have completed the Hexer without them.

There are some wider lessons I’m studying when I compare the Hexer at 200KM and 4,400 meters of elevation change with the UTMB at 166KM and 10,000 meters of elevation change.  The Hexer allowed 48 hours for completion while the UTMB only grants 46.  UTMB check point cut off times were my undoing in 2011; albeit they were compressed because of the late start.  I’m thrilled to get another hundred miler in for the experience, but recognize that I must increase my pace all around in order to work in some sleep and rest periods for the UTMB in 2013.  I think I’ll work to complete one or two additional one hundred milers prior to attempting next year’s UTMB.

Diet and Fueling – I am still refining my running diet.  The week prior to the Hexer I specifically carbo loaded.  Doing so worked well.  During the event I used GU normal and Roctane gels,  a mix of various energy and snickers bars, and the fruits, crackers, and odd meal that were available over the trail.  I had packed tortillas spread with peanut butter and jelly, but did not eat them as I got extremely burned out on sweets.  I’ve got to experiment with some non-sweet food sources, perhaps salty potatoes.  I tried eating a packet of peanut butter and crackers.  I got them down with a bit of difficulty.  With a dry mouth and on the go they are tough to consume.  At about 100KM I was burned out on the energy bars and sweets I had with me and forced myself to choke down gels to keep energy and caffeine in my tank.  A week after the event I still don’t know if I can eat an energy bar or snickers without retching.  I found that my beverage selection worked well during the Hexer.  I used a combination of Gatorade and Hammer Perpetuem Caffé Latte.  I carried the Gatorade in my pack bladder and the Perpetuem in waist bottles.  I mixed up two bottles of Succeed’s Clip 2, but found it hard to get down.  I’m going to give it another go at the Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux.  Caffeine played a critical role in my fueling strategy.  Its use is something I have to play with a bit.  I overdosed on caffeine at the ThueringenULTRA two years ago and have underdosed during other events.  Going into the Hexer I reduced my caffeine intake a week prior to the race.  Unlike the Brocken Challenge of 2012 I did not eliminate it from my diet the week prior, but cut down to a cup of coffee in the morning each day.  This seemed to work well going in to the Hexer.  I think that the key to caffeine use is gaining a specific understanding of its impact on your body and outlook.  During the Hexer I found that if I used a GU Roctane gel about ever 2.5 to three hours and sipped on the Perpetuem I gained a positive impact from it and could actually feel the waves of “well being” flowing from the caffeine’s use.  I mentioned the Succeed S!Caps I had with me in Part I of this report.  They are a great tool and with the exception of winter events I always carry a packet of them with me.

Gear – Like just about every other race I’ve participated in I carried way too much gear during the Hexer.  My Nathan HPL 579 pack which was discontinued by Nathan is a great, well fitting pack.  Its downside is that it affords the opportunity to carry way too much stuff.  I plan to work on cutting back what I’m carrying with me especially since I’ll likely be forced to go to a smaller pack when this one falls apart.  I followed Micha’s advice leading up the Hexer and started out with the UTMB packing list.  Given that aid stations were anywhere from 20 – 38KM apart during the Hexer I carried at least eight energy bars, eight servings of drink mix and other assorted foods.  At our first drop bag I dropped off the pair of long running tights I carried, the extra tee-shirt and watch cap.  I maintained my trekking poles, gloves, North Face jacket, gloves, sunglasses and first aid kit throughout the race.  I used all of these over various portions of the route and feel that they are a must particularly when running in the Harz or over similar terrain. 

Foot Care/Blister Management – Wow!  This is a tough one as I’m still feeling their impact.  I’m going to have to do some further experimentation on this topic.  I don’t think that the blisters I gained were a result of my shoes, North Face Single Tracks, as I had worn them during training, and the Saaletal Marathon.  I wore a pair of CEP compression socks for the first time during an actual event; had worn them a couple of times in training with no issues.  I do however think that the blisters I gained were caused by my socks.  Andrea Möhr recommended short socks with tube style compression sleeves.  I’ve used that combination before with a pair of compression tubes I made myself and will revert back to this practice for my next event.  Over the course of the Hexer I treated my feet with Moleskin on two occasions.  While working on the blisters I did not think that they were in a condition where I should lance, drain and bandage them.  This occurred much later.  I probably should have stopped and drained them when they had fully formed rather than continuing to run on them.  Tough call – blisters won’t kill you, but they sure can help your mind wonder to places you definitely should not go when running an endurance event.  If you are managing blisters or other irritating injuries you’ve got to make a decision on what to do with them.  For me it took a deliberate decision to recognize them, but set them aside as something that was not going to be a factor in any decisions to withdraw from the race.

Mental Anchors – There is absolute truth in this statement:  “Mental fortitude is more important than physical endurance”.  If you’re going to run out beyond the marathon distance you need to recognize that; embrace it; meditate on it; fully comprehend it.  That is probably the greatest lesson I learned while running the Hexenstieg Ultra.  The other ultra events I’ve participated in to this point have not taken me to the limits of my mental fortitude.  Yes, they have tested my physical endurance, but the Hexer truly tested my mental fortitude.  I think keys to success here rest in making the decision; you’re either going to run the race, or not.  I found tricks in maintaining my forward movement by framing different legs of the event (OK, the next leg is 38KM – Let me break that down into bite sized junks and I can certainly do this!  When is the next aid station?  What terrain features are between us and its location?  Ten kilometers of climbing and then coasting downhill…).  George Sheehan’s thought rings true yet again, “It’s very hard in the beginning to understand that the whole idea is not to beat the other runners.  Eventually you learn that the competition is against the little voice inside you that wants you to quit.”

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 Part IV

After passing through the finish line Andrea and Norbert Möhr passed us off to the medics that were on site.  Micha you thought of everything!  Although I could not complain about my health condition, other than wanting someone to drain my blisters it was nice to go through this formality.  The lead medic briefed us on our post-race medical requirements; they would check our vitals, once now and then thirty minutes later; and address any medical issues we had.  Temperature, blood pressure and heart rate were all in order; and I grabbed a beer and headed up to take a shower.

I have an issue that I want to speak with a doctor about to gain some advice and insight on.  Don’t know if anyone else experiences this sensation, but I’ve found nothing on it in my readings and study of ultrarunning.  This effect generally occurs after running 100 or more kilometers.  When I arrived in my room at the Harzer-Hof I dropped my race pack, had a long draw on my beer and began to come down.  As I came down I experienced a bone shaking chill where my entire body went into the shakes.  I jumped in the shower and cranked it as hot as it would go.  I got my shakes under control; got dressed and went down to have my vitals taken again and my blisters worked on.  I’ll come back to my issue of chills in a minute.

After having my vitals checked again, which were normal.  I talked with a couple of folks and passed on having any dinner.  Stephan had again set up another super meal for us.  I told Micha that I was going to bed and went back upstairs.  It didn’t take me long to get under the sheets or fall asleep, but as I did I recognized the second phase of the sensation I have following an ultra – my temperature seemed to sky rocket.

My face was flushed and I appeared to have a fever only in the upper part of my body.  My body swung between a burning flush and deep chills.  I ignored both and fell into a deep sleep.  An hour or two later I woke up fully bathed in sweat with my tee-shirt soaked through.  Fortunately I had another tee-shirt to sleep in and switched shirts at about 2330.  After changing shirts and going to the bathroom I returned to bed and slept in a deep, dark sleep until my alarm went off at 0625.

I got up on Monday morning feeling refreshed from the sleep, but deeply tired; packed my things and went down to have breakfast.  Again Stephan took care of us with a wonderful breakfast buffet.  It was super to chat with the other runners and be back within the lifecycle of the rest of the world.
Following breakfast Micha conducted an informal awards ceremony which I almost missed as I was outside talking.  After the awards ceremony it was time to say farewell and make my way back home.  What a fantastic weekend and race!  Count me in for 2013!

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 Part II

After about an hour’s break Günter, Matthias and I set off without Nic for the Hexentanzplatz a much celebrated place located on the top of a lovely little hill.  The Hexentanzplatz (Witches’ Dance Floor) rests on a plateau at 454M above the Bode Gorge.  As legend has it, the Hexentanzplatz was the site of old Saxon Cult celebrations of the Forest and Mountain Goddesses.  Following the taming of the region by Christian Franks the area became known as the Hexentanzplatz.  The legend also holds that the dance floor was guarded by Frank soldiers who were chased off by Saxons dressed as witches and riding on broomsticks.  This Saxon victory over the Franks is celebrated to this day on and around the first of May.  In fact, 10,000 visitors were expected on the Hexentanzplatz on 1 May 2012.

As you can tell by the Hexentanzplatz link above normal people travel to the Hexentanzplatz via cable car to view the panoramic views and the Bode Gorge.  Thanks to Micha this was not in our cards this evening although we did have a brief opportunity to enjoy the view at the White Deer stamp station before making our way down to Treseburg and back into the Bode Gorge.

Our path into the Bode Gorge saw us rapidly losing any remaining daylight on a long hot Saturday.  While in the Gorge we got to again enjoy the frequent ups and downs of the trail and a slow ascent back up to our next rest stop at Königshütte.  Although we were slowly gaining elevation I was not feeling the elation of doing so.  This phase of the event probably saw me at my lowest point mentally during the entire race.  I was burned out from the heat of the day; had now been running for more than twenty-four hours with no sleep; and my tank was running very low on food.  The Brandenburgers and I had spent most of the day talking and enjoying the event.  At this point everyone was worn and very quite – we were running yet sleeping on our feet.  So, picture if you will three dudes running through the deep of the night.  It was very quite…  I began to hear something rustling to our right about ten meters from our path.  It seemed that whatever was making this noise was moving along with us.  I pictured Indians riding along side waiting to ride in for the kill.  “Wow”, I thought, whatever that is, it is not breaking contact with us – it continues to run alongside.  I asked Matthias and Günter what they thought it was and we were interrupted with a very loud and ugly sounding “SNORT”.  Blood now rushing; kick up the adrenaline.  That is a fooging boar!  Matthias shouted “RUN” and we took off at a sprint.  I shined my hand held flashlight over to where I thought the wild pigs were moving and caught several piglets in its beam. 

Adrenaline kicks are great in the short term.  They do however leave you wasted over time.  After running down from Boar Hill approaching the aid station at Treseburg I slipped back into a deeper rut.  I was burned out and the single blister I had identified at Thale seemed as if it was growing and was shooting sharp signals up my leg.  My focus and commitment to complete the Hexenstieg began to slip anchor and quickly drift…

After what seemed an eternity we finally made it to the aid station at Altenbrak.  I moved beyond the refreshment area and went immediately to work on the blister on my left foot.  Micha (I don’t know how he managed to be at virtually every aid station.) came over to check on me.  I told him that all was good (I lied) and that you don’t die from blisters.  After getting bandaged up again we set out into the night for Königshütte.  Curses!  

The next 24 odd kilometers are a deep dark blur for me.  The devil got on my back and road me; spinning things in my head.  I slipped into a deep pool of self-pity and bad decision making.  As we coursed ever upwards towards Königshütte I cursed myself for signing up for this race.  No, blisters won’t kill you, but they certainly provide a great opportunity to dwell on your misery.  While focused on the one on my left foot a new one developed in the same location on my right.  Matthias began to hallucinate and told us that a lighted long jump ski ramp was coming up on our right.  It was actually the moon shining through the clouds.  I really began to shut down on Matthias and Günter not talking with either.

Dick Collins advice, “Decide before the race the conditions that will cause you to stop and drop out.  You don’t want to be out there saying, “Well gee, my leg hurts, I’m a little dehydrated, I’m sleepy, I’m tired, and it’s cold and windy,” and talk yourself into quitting.  If you are making a decision based on how you feel at that moment, you will probably make the wrong decision” is spot on.  I had read and considered this passage many times.  I had not considered the fact that running an ultra like the Hexenstieg takes a very solid personal commitment to this principal.  In fact, I’d never been to this point in my thinking before.  Sure, other races have sucked, but never like this. 

Between Altenbrak and Königshütte I abandoned all principals and commitment to finishing the Hexenstieg and decided to quit, or at least go down for a while and sleep.  That’s what my mind told me, but the devil that was now riding me like a cheap circus ride told me that it was “OK to tell the Brandenburger that you are going to get some sleep.”  Once they’re gone you can sleep some more and drop because you know that there are no vehicles scheduled to leave Königshütte unless it’s an emergency, you take a cab, or you wait it out until the morning by which time you will have missed every opportunity to finish.  So quit.  It’s all good!  This ultra racing thing is stupid anyway.  You don’t need to prove that you can do this to anyone.” 

We each rolled into Königshütte in dark spirits.  When we got into the community building there were people crashed and sleeping everywhere.  “This is what I’m talking about!”  The race volunteers were again superb.  As we sat down at the first table in sight there were several of them asking what food and drink they could bring us?  I had an alcohol free beer and a cup of coffee at the same time; I don’t recall what plate (noodles or potatoes) I ate.  Günter fell asleep eating his meal while Matthias rummaged through his drop bag and then fell asleep.  My tee-shirt was soaked from sweating and by now I was wearing a wind breaker; I figured what the hell and also went to sleep.  In the back of my mind I was looking to drop and hoping that Günter and Matthias would go down for a while then I could reconsider everything.

After twenty minutes or so Matthias asked us if we were ready to go.  Sluggishly Günter wondered off to the bathroom.  It was here that I told Matthias that I was going to drop.  My hope was that he would encourage me not to; I was prepared with a number of good solid arguments; instead he simply asked if my blisters were going to be a real issue.  Günter came back and I told him while Matthias was away from the table.  He told me that I was not going to drop and that I needed to get myself together.  Period – easy as that.  I wondered off to the bathroom to actually test my feet and gather my thoughts.  While sitting in the bathroom I thought about Dick Collins’ advice and decided to head back out, “Shit this is going to suck!”.  I made my way back to our table and told the Brandenburgers that I was back in the game, but that before I made my final decision I wanted their assurance that I would not be a burden to them, nor hold them back from finishing.  Great guys!  They told me that we were in this thing together and we were going to finish it together no matter what.  This commitment to one another, to this event blew me away.  This is what ultrarunning is about.

With that and a final slug of coffee and a GU we headed out in the night towards Torfhaus...   

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 Part I

This tough 200KM trail race took place along the famous or infamous Harzer-Hexenstieg (Harz Witch’s Trail) in the Harz Mountains of Central Germany from 28  - 29 April 2012.  The route passed from Osterode over the Brocken to Thale and back via a circuitous route home to Osterode.  The Hexenstieg contains significant elevation change of 4000 meters traveling through deep forests and into sub-alpine zones near the Brocken.  The Hexenstieg courses over well developed hiking trails (65%) and single track (25%) with the remaining 10% of the course traveling along farm or other low use roads and paths.  Navigation over the course was facilitated by hiking trail marking, GPS, maps and the road book.  There were almost no race specific markings.  Weather conditions on race weekend were as anticipated mixed with rain Saturday night, an icy wind on the Brocken and very hot (38C/100F) weather Saturday afternoon.

Nine months after my first 100 miler I felt nervous, but ready to take on what was to prove to be an exceptionally challenging, yet rewarding 125 mile ultra.

After getting up at 0600 on Friday morning, having breakfast with the girls and making final arrangements I left for the Hotel Harzer Hof in Osterode at about 0830.  I was pleasantly surprised at the arrangements Michael Frenz had made for us with Stephan Zirbus at the Harzer Hof – we had the whole place to ourselves and it was to serve as race headquarters and home away from home for the next couple of days.

Micha exceeded my wildest expectations in the set up he had developed leading up the race – a private event became a professional affair.  He had established a race headquarters with maps, instructions, sign in rosters and a super drop bag with special goodies from a number of great sponsors including WAT Läuft (Thanks Rolli!).  At 1600 Stephan and his crew served a delicious vegan or meat eater meal of which I had two portions of the vegan pasta.  Like military clockwork Micha had us in our places at 1700 for an in-depth race briefing which included a discussion of how he saw the race unfolding, a detailed description of the course and safety issues.  During this briefing he introduced the medical and massage teams that were on tap to support us.  First class pre-race affairs!  

Following dinner and the race briefing we took a quick group photo and then Micha released us to go prepare and rest prior to the midnight kickoff.  After completing the final preparation of my run kit I found it impossible to sleep during our down time.  Things were simply too loud around the hotel and I was too excited about the race.  If you’re a racer you know the deal.  Your nerves are on edge; you worry about your training and health leading up to the event; and doubt begins to creep in.  I meditated a bit and tried to relax.

At 0000 on 28 April the Hexenstieg Ultra kicked off from the Hotel Harzer Hof with twenty-eight runners.  Nineteen of this group would finish the course.

From Osterode we traveled through the night to the first rest stop at Torfhaus (33KM).  Although the elevation change was not sharp during this period it was there over the long run.  The trails were extremely dark and a light rain was falling on us most of the night.  My mind often wondered to J.R.R. Tolkien and his portrayal of many of the scenes within his stories.  It was dark (I turned off my headlamp for short period and could not see my hand in front of my face) and it was spooky.  During this leg of the race the pack of runners had spread out as it inevitably does.  Fortunately I had settled into a pace with a couple of other people including Jorg Finkbeiner.  Jorg and I had met at final registration; he is from the area where I live so we had some things in common and wound up running together to the Brocken Ramp.  At one point Jorg and I were moving over a shoulder width path that had boulders, stones, and moss all over it.  The rain had made the area extremely slippery.  I slipped and fell backwards landing on my back.  With a loud "Fook" and a short moment to regroup;  I quickly gathered my lamp and senses and was thankful that I had not injured myself this early in the race.

Following a quick break at Torfhaus our path led us higher quickly moving to the unique Brocken environment.  For a Texan it was unusual to see patches of snow on the ground this late in the spring.  I got lost in the beauty of the environment listening to the forest awake; wondering about wild boar and looking forward to my second visit to the Brocken this year.  After a brief break on the way up the Brocken Ramp to answer the call of nature I was excited to arrive on the summit (42KM or the first marathon distance of several for the day) at 0630.  The timing was perfect for an early breakfast and again Micha had taken care of everything having coordinated to have the Brocken Wirt open and ready with hot coffee and pastries.

Jorg and I split paths at the Brocken Summit as I wanted to get back out on the trail.  I wrapped up breakfast; refilled water bottles and shifted my load around a bit.  As I was getting ready to leave another group of three were setting out and tentatively welcomed me into their group.  Because of the lack of race trail marking I felt it critical to run with a partner or group.  This group “The Brandenburgers” were to be my traveling partners for the next day and a half.

Over the course of the next 158 kilometers I was to get to know and come to depend upon this merry band of Brandenburgers.  The group was made up of Günter Janiszewski, Matthias Muhs and Nic Rohman.  Unfortunately, Nic was not to finish the Hexenstieg.  Before I go on let me tell you briefly about the term Brandenburgers.  The Brandenburgers refers to the region where this group is from, Brandenburg.  They too are a world and culture unto themselves (smile).  Although at first we weighed one another out as most competitors do and there was not a lot of talking at least with me because I was an outsider to this tight group of friends, we slowly warmed to one another and spent hours talking about, well..., everything!  That, is but one thing that makes a race of this nature so incredibly wonderful.  (I’m usually a runner that has his iPod on the entire course of an event.  I didn’t use either of the two I brought with me.)  

From the Brocken Summit we set out for the next aid station at Königshütte at Kilometer 66.  As I mentioned above the day started out overcast, windy, and cold.  This was to rapidly change as we traveled with the sun coming out and basting us for hours.  I was glad to have had the foresight to have carried some Succeed tablets with me.  Succeed S!Caps are the shit when you’re running in hot weather.  They assist in the prevention of both dehydration and cramping.  And no, that was not a paid endorsement.  They are simply good stuff! 

Over the route to Königshütte we crossed the course of the Harzquerung.  It was fun to pass through this area as one of the Harzquerung aid stations was setting up as we passed and wondered what in the heck runners were doing out so early.  Like many others over the weekend, they too were a bit surprised to hear that we were running a round trip of the Hexenstieg.  Our course took us onwards to the aid station at Rübeland, through the Bode Valley and onward to the half-way point and aid station in the Sport Center in Thale.  The toughest part of the outbound course was between Treseburg and Teufelsbrücke.  Although “only” six kilometers this portion of the route was characterized by a path that went up and down (constantly), was strewn with rocks and talus and contained the pleasant surprise shown below.  Great stuff Micha!!!

At the Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge) we made our way to Thale and the half way point.  If you’re ever in Thale don’t ask for instructions to the Community Sport Center or anything else for that matter.  No one knows anything in this town that time seems to have gotten stuck in time immediately following the German Reunification.  It looks very much like what I recall the rest of the region looking like in 1990.  Very odd...

It was great to finally land at the Sport Center in Thale.  It was as if a weight had been taken off of my shoulders.  We had just traveled 100KM in the blazing sun; I had had it with the energy drinks, gels and bars I was carrying and was looking forward to something decent to eat, a chance to take off my shoes and relax a bit.

I want to pause a moment in this chronology and specifically talk about the race volunteers that supported this race.  This was the most amazing group of volunteers I’ve ever run with.  They truly made this race happen often staying up as long as we did and catering to our every need.  The group was made up of family members and friends of runners that were on the course.  When you arrived at an aid station you were treated like family and a VIP.  I could not have completed this race without your support.

In the Bode Valley Nic had run out a bit in front of us so he arrived in Thale somewhat earlier than Matthias, Günter and I.  At Thale we each had access to a second drop bag which was a huge factor for all.   In hindsight I wish I had packed a towel like everyone else because there were showers available which most folks took advantage of.  While in Thale I enjoyed a plate of pasta a whole lot of juice, water, and cola.  After eating a bit and restocking my running pack I took time to bandage up the first of what were to become five significant blisters.  Although in Thale my blister was causing me no real issues it was a warning of things to come...

The Merit...

Probably will not have time to post again until after I get back from the Hexer.  Before I take off wanted to share this excellent perspective on ultrarunning that I came across from run100.com.

Perhaps the genius of ultrarunning is its supreme lack of utility.  It makes no sense in a world of space ships and supercomputers to run vast distances on foot.  There is no money in it and no fame, frequently not even the approval of peers.  But as poets, apostles and philosophers have insisted from the dawn of time, there is more to life than logic and common sense.  The ultrarunners know this instinctively.  And they know something else that is lost on the sedentary.  They understand, perhaps better than anyone that the doors to the spirit will swing open with physical effort.  In running such long and taxing distances they answer a call from the deepest realms of their being - a call that asks who they are... - David Blaikie

See you on the other side...

Mindset

Number 18 of Chris Kostman's 70 Things is spot on...

Watch the sunrise at least once a month. Don't just be
up and about while it happens; actually watch it.

Amazing...