100MeilenBerlin – Berlin Mauerweglauf

“If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten.”  Rudyard Kipling

The 16th of August 2014 saw the third running of the Berlin Mauerweglauf or 100MeilenBerlin.  Like many aspects of this great 100-miler its running date is tied to a historical event or memory.  This one marks the official start of construction of the Berlin Wall which occurred on 13 August 1961.  Each ultramarathon I’ve run is unique on many levels; the Mauerweglauf is individually unique to any of the other running adventures I’ve pursued.  Established as a memorial event to recognize the terror of the Berlin Wall, it is singularly focused on the circumstances and rich historical background that shape your every step along its course.

The 100MeilenBerlin honors the memory of one of the victims of the German Democratic Republic that lost their lives along the Berlin Wall.  2014 was held in memory of Peter Fechter who, on 17 August 1962, was shot and left to bleed out in the death zone between East and West Berlin.

The course of the Berlin Mauerweglauf is almost identical to that of the official trace of the Berlin Wall.  Orange colored posts, memorial crosses, remnants of the wall and watch towers remind travelers of this path of victims of this border.  At least 136 people lost their lives along this border between 1961 and 1989.

As a student of history or simply curious tourist of Berlin you may have the opportunity to visit several monuments in the heart of Berlin near the Wall or perhaps the Memorial Center Berliner Mauer on the Bernauer Strasse.  The Memorial Center provides a singular experience in the construction of and life with the Berlin Wall.  Each offer an important, but singular glimpse into the past.  Only by following the course of the Berliner Mauerweg can you begin to develop a deeper appreciation of the scale of the crime that occurred here.  Over the course of its path memorial sites and markers slowly unveil glimpses into the hundreds of attempts at freedom and their individual stories that occurred here for more than twenty-eight years.  This story unfolding, over the course of 100 miles was my deepest experience during this year’s Berlin Mauerweglauf.  Contemplation of its significance filled many hours of my day as I coursed over the Berliner Mauerweg.

 
The 2014 Berlin Mauerweglauf started in the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion and coursed in a clockwise direction over its 100 miles.  Course direction changes are becoming a tradition of this race as they have switched each year.  The race course is supported by twenty-seven rest stops with VP1 located on the Zimmerstrasse at the Peter Fechter Memorial.  The last rest stop at 157.9KM is located on the Wlollankstrasse and is provided as help for the final push into the Finish located again in the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion.  Included within the twenty-seven rest stops were three “Change Points” located at Sporthalle Teltow, Schloss Sacrow and in Henningsdorf at the Oberhavel Rudder Club.  Change Points provided runners an opportunity to pick up a drop back, change clothes and take on any additional supplies they may have required.  They also served as “Cut Off” stations for race time limits.  

The 2014 Berlin Mauerweglauf was my second deliberate 100 Mile Road Race.  I’ve run a several other events of greater distance, but they were not characterized like this 100 Mile event.  The 100MeilenBerlin is a road race with largely flat surfaces that course over roads, asphalted or cobblestone streets or semi-improved road surfaces.  I was glad that I chose my Hokas as my race shoes as I’m afraid that any other shoe would have smoked my feet.

The Langstrekenlauf-Gemeinschaft Mauerweg (LG Mauerweg) serves as the lead organizer and supporter of the 100MeilenBerlin.  LG Mauerweg’s design and support of the 100MeilenBerlin was first class down to the smallest detail.  I was particularly impressed with pre-race activities via their web site, runners care, an extensive network of superb race volunteers, course marking and the unique drop bag solution that was employed.  Pre-race activities in Berlin were outstanding with race headquarters located at the Ramada Hotel on the Alexander Platz.  These activities included final race check-in, the pasta dinner, race briefing and pre-race breakfast.

The 100MeilenBerlin started at 0600 with a loop around the track of the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion.  The race field remained largely compact and together as we traveled through the first ten kilometers of empty streets in Berlin.  I was entertained by the “typical German” nature of stopping at street crossings as we’d been told that we would be pulled from the race if we failed to comply with traffic laws.  This bit was nice as we all got warmed up to the race and one another.  

Running at this time of day on a Saturday in Berlin was exceptional as we passed the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate and other significant sites.

 
Running to the first Change Point at KM 58.82 and the Sporthalle Teltow was relatively uneventful for me.  I concentrated on finding my groove and working to still the “Monkey Mind” that plays havoc in early parts of a run for me.  The course was supported with nine aid stations to this point.  Going with the thought of fueling early I probably spent too much time in these nine stations.  At the Sporthalle in Teltow I restocked on energy bars and gels and refilled my water bottles.  I had packed a change of clothes, but did not use any of my spares.  Leaving Teltow the weather was good with sunshine and mild temperatures.

The going from Teltow to Schloss Sacrow (91KM) was pretty smooth.  I ran for a period with a German from Muenster that had studied Business in the US.  He and I chatted for a couple of hours, but got separated as I stopped to put on a rain jacket during a downpour.  I rolled into Schloss Sacrow with a quick turn plan in mind and was able to eat a bit of solid food and restock my pack’s supplies and get back out relatively quickly.  Going back out of this Check Point I felt solid.

A rest station or two after Schloss Sacrow I slammed three cups of cola and crammed several handfuls of nuts and fruit down in an effort to clear the station quickly.  Not a good move…  At about 110KM I became very nauseated and suffered from extreme stomach cramps.  I had not had a GI issue like this in a couple of years.  Like many things that you can’t or don’t practice I got very worried that this GI issue was going to undo my run.  I wanted/needed to throw-up, but was worried about doing so.  Not long thereafter the choice was taken from me and I blew up on the side of the road – twice!  I was pleasantly surprised with the relief that blowing up like this brought.  My stomach cramps and nausea immediately ended and my disposition and outlook immediately cleared up.  My lowest point came between 123 and 132KMs.  I think that this came on as I had cleared my gut and was low on fuel.  I refueled (at a little solid food) and drank a Red Bull at the final Check Point at the Oberhavel Rudder Club.  I remained somewhat down even after this final Check Point as I needed to poop several times which I thought was slowing me down a lot.

At 138KMs I “hitched a ride” with a German runner that was moving a bit quicker than I.  By hitching a ride I mean I drafted in behind this runner and used his rhythm and speed to pull me forward.  Not to be rude I passed him; tried to chat him up and led for a while.  He passed me; refused to talk and kept on going.  One of those dudes that was just in his place and moving on.  I hitched with him off and on until about 150KMs after which we went our separate ways. 

The last ten or so kilometers of the 100MeilenBerlin contained three aid stations.  Other than a lot of kilometers this race included a lot of aid stations!  I won’t say that I didn’t appreciate them, but will say that I didn’t use them this year.  I passed through these last stations only to register my timing chip and head back to the finish.  That last stretch between VP 27 (157.90KM) and the Finish (161.86KM) was one of the longest 3.96KMs I’ve traveled.  At VP 27 I attempted to frame the distance to a training track I use at home, mentally trying to associate the two with where I might be on the home course.  The mind can be a very powerful friend or simply a pain in the ass.  (smile)

After what seemed an eternity of four kilometers I finally rolled back onto the track in the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion for my final lap.  At first I was alone on the track, but then Karl Rohwedder and Cornelia Balke pulled up behind me out of what seemed no where.  I had not seen them over the entire course of the last day, having hoped to do so much earlier.  Cornelia and Karl suggested we jog the last lap together and we wound up crossing the finish line holding hands.  A super way to finish a fantastic event!

The 16th of August is a historical landmark in the greater history of the division of Germany and Europe.  The Berlin Mauerweglauf affords a meaningful way to maintain the stories associated with this history and their significance.  Personally the Berlin Mauerweglauf afforded me with a 100 Mile Personal Best allowing me to finish the distance in race conditions in under twenty-four hours.  The wider race field did very well.  Of the 285 starters 211 finished.  The winner, Mark Perkins finished in an amazing 13:06 with the women’s winner, Grit Seidel, finishing in a solid 18:16.

My hat is off to Dr. Ronald Musil, LG Mauerweg, and all of the folks that supported the planning, coordination and conduct of this superb 100 Mile Road Race.  The 100MeilenBerlin is a fantastic event that I have added to my list of races to run again and again! 

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Zugspitz Ultratrail 2014

Southern Germany is one of those singularly amazing places in the world that has the potential to host an exceptional mountain ultramarathon.  Anchored in the village of Grainau and coursing around the Zugspitze Massive the Zugspitz Ultratrail (ZUT) is destined to become a classic among international alpine ultras.

Hosted by Plan B and sponsored by Salomon, 2014 saw the forth running of the ZUT.  From registration through post race activities the ZUT and Plan B are simply exceptional.  I highly recommend both participation in the ZUT (I’ll be back again!) and events hosted by Plan B.

713 runners started the ZUT under slightly cloudy skies at 0715 on 21 June.  Temperatures were cool, but bearable considering the alpine environment.  As the day progressed we were treated to ideal running conditions under mild sunny conditions.

The ZUT course traverses 100 kilometers (61 miles) and 5,400 meters (17,841 feet) of climb coursing over some of the most beautiful trails in the Alps.  The route travels over multiple ski slopes and some of the best single track trail I’ve run in Germany.  Yes, 5,400 meters (17,841 feet) of climb!  The crowning achievement is getting back down from Aid Station 10 with only about six kilometers left in the course.  Over the course route runners are treated to sweeping views of the Zugspitze Massive.  Spectacular trail carries you across the northwest face of the Zugspitze Mountain, the Gatterl, Scharnitzjoch, Ferchensee and the Osternfeldern.

As the old adage goes…  Pictures tell a thousand words.  I’ll let some of the impressions frame a bit of this report from here…

501 runners finished the ZUT within the allotted twenty-six hours.  Although, cut off times at each check point and the overall time limit are generous, the demands of this alpine ultra take their toll on the uninitiated.  I don’t recommend this race as a first 100KM or alpine event.  Plan B offers four races under the capstone of the ZUT.  These include the 100KM Ultratrail, 79KM Supertrail XL, 60KM Supertrail and 35.6KM Basetrail.  Each demands a certain level of ultra running and alpine experience.  None are for the uninitiated.

The top finishers put on an amazing show in 2014.  Twenty-eight year old Stephan Hugenschmidt of Radolfzell was the overall winner with a teeth gnashing finish in 10:35:50.  Among the women, forty year old Anne-Marie Flammersfeld dominated the finish in 13:53:21.  I walked away feeling way too good with a 22:15:03 finish.  Unique in corporately hosted and sponsored events the ZUT and Plan B have developed an “every racer is an important part of this event” attitude.  The final finishers were greeted and celebrated with as much hullabaloo as those at the top.  Celebration of all continued well after everyone had left Grainau on the Zugspitze Ultra Facebook and Web sites.     

As each day passes since my 2014 ZUT finish I yearn to get back out on the trail and run this amazing race again.  Plan B – Count me in for 2015!

Hexenstieg Ultra 2014 – Heaven and Hell

The lover of life’s not a sinner
The ending is just a beginning
The closer you get to the meaning
The sooner you’ll know that you’re dreaming
So it’s on and on and on, oh it’ on and on and on
It goes on and on and on, Heaven and Hell…
 

Black Sabbath – Ronnie James Dio

The Hexenstieg Ultra is the brain child of Michael Frenz (Der Hexer) and generally follows the course of the Hexenstieg (Witch’s Trail or in German the Harzer Hexenstieg) hiking trail.  The trail runs from Osterode through the Harz Mountains, over its highest peak, the Brocken, to Thale and back to Osterode.  For casual hikers the trail is approximately 100km in length ending in Thale.  For the Hexenstieg Ultra runners the trail turns around at Thale and courses back to Osterode for a total of 216km or 135 miles.

From Osterode to Clausthal-Zellerfeld the Hexenstieg courses along the Upper Harz Ponds.  The ponds are part of a cultural monument of the former mining industry of the Harz, known as the Upper Harz Water Regale.  The Regale is a system of dams, reservoirs, ditches and other structures, much of which were built from the 16th to 19th centuries to divert and store water that drove the water wheels of the mines in the Upper Harz region of Germany.  The Upper Harz Water Regale is one of the largest and most important historic mining water management systems in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  As you might imagine, a tremendous trail system that is the perfect setting for an ultra!

25 April 2014, marked the third annual Hexenstieg.  This ultra is designed to challenge runners with its distance over a broad mix of hiking trails, single track, and farm roads that traverse a wide range of terrain.  In addition to the distance and terrain the Upper Harz is known for its unstable and harsh weather conditions.  In April the weather can typically range from spring and summer temperatures to winter weather with snow, wind and rain.  Mother Nature smiled on the Hexenstieg runners in 2014 gracing us with mild temperatures, sunshine, several hours of light spring rain and wind and cool temperatures at night with lows around 3C.

Friday morning we started with forty runners.  Stefan Beckmann, Oliver Schoiber, and Michael Wagner led early and would dominate the race throughout the next thirty-plus hours.  Over the course of the event we lost eleven runners to various issues and at various distances, although thankfully there were no serious injuries or accidents.  Stefan and Oliver finished the race together for a tied first place in 31:39.  The women’s winner was Bianka Schwede who finished in 41:42.  Bianka’s amazing accomplishment is further highlighted by her women’s win of the Jurastieg Ultra (230KM) two weeks prior in 40:42! 

As the bit of Black Sabbath’s “Heaven and Hell” highlights above my race was just that…  Heaven and Hell.  The Hexenstieg and Harz region are two of my favorite locales in Germany.  The Brocken and the surrounding environs are magical to travel through.  In my mind this area is much like what I imagine Tolkien’s Middle Earth to be like.  Running along the Upper Harz Water Regale you expect to bump into a group of Dwarves finishing up a days work below in the mines.

This year I started my race intentionally at a very slow pace.  216-plus kilometers are a long way to go in one running…  I spent most, if not all of the race running with Lutz Kalitzsch.  Lutz and I have known and raced with one another for several years.  Joining us over the next couple of days were Ulrich Faust, Andreas Rumpelt and a couple of others.  Unfortunately, Ulrich had a tough time with GI issues and was forced to drop about half way into the race.  Andreas was to finish with Lutz and I.  Although an ultra undertaking is a singularly personal experience and endeavor, it’s always nice to work through the inevitable challenges in a group.  We agreed to go the distance together and enjoyed many laughs, getting to know one another and the other emotions and challenges that go along with crossing Heaven and Hell.

Highpoints of my race included a number of different locations and experiences.  Jens Habich and his crew from Adrenalintours in Clausthal-Zellerfeld (First and last Aid Station) were simply fantastic.  The single track course near the Wolfswarte and the valley to the east of Quitschenberg is a trail runners paradise!  The Brocken!  One word:  Magical.  Ruebelad, the Gasthaus, Tannegrund – An alcohol free Hefeweizen never tasted better!  The “High Moor” that surrounds the area around the Oderteich is simply a dreamscape.

And yes…  There were low points.  The night, no moon, a headlamp and kilometers and kilometers to go…  The little arch of light that a headlamp makes in front of an ultra runner can hypnotically narrow your world and thoughts in the deep of the night.  The challenge at this point is to avoid any negative thoughts.  For me, the simplest negativity can lead to a rapid slide into a dark morass that is hard to get back out of particularly if sunrise is a long way off.  I also learned that I can’t allow myself to think about the finish until I’ve gone through the last aid station and am headed in.  To consider it any earlier leads to frustration.  Follow me for a minute…

“When I finish I’m going to take a shower and get that massage.  I’ll drink a beer and sleep…  There are only XXkm left until then – you got this.  Shit, how many kilometers are left?  My knee hurts…  If I could get a message now my knee would stop hurting and I could get something to eat.  And, go to sleep…  This sucks.  This is hell.  Why am I doing this?  I have nothing to prove to anyone.  Damn I’m cold…  I could drop at the next aid station and get back before everyone else to get a shower and something to eat.  (Stop!  Focus on your mantra.  Screw that mantra!  It’s stupid anyway.)  I’ve got to catch a train tomorrow morning at 1100 which means if I dropped now I could get at least five hours of uninterrupted sleep.  Damn I’m tired.  I wish these guys would stop talking to me…  I don’t want to talk.  Don’t they know I’m damn tired?  These guys don’t care if I drop at the next aid station; they’d be rid of me and I could sleep!  (What was your mantra?  I don’t remember.  It was stupid anyway…)”
  
DON’T CONSIDER THE FINISH until you’re headed there after the last aid station.  I was able to manage the time, distance and sleeplessness by breaking the race down into whichever current leg we were on, running aid station to aid station, breaking the event down into manageable portions.

And in the end.  After 46:45…  I applied a bit of sound advice from an old friend.  Nothing beats a Hefeweizen and a dribble of a fine spirit to crown the event.  

Race headquarters in 2014 was again located at Stefan Zirbus’ Hotel Harzer Hof in Osterode.  Stefan and his team bent over backwards to accommodate the wants and needs of the Hexenstieg event.  A big thanks for all of your support Stefan!  I hope to get back out to the Harzer Hof again in the not too distant future.

Race support was generated solely by race volunteers.  In this case they are all friends of the event, family members and friends of runners.  This group demonstrated the true nature of “volunteerism” as they too were connected with the event.  I appreciate each and everyone one of the supporters and could not have finished without them.  

I’ve written and said this before…  Each event I’ve run in that was hosted by Michael Frenz has been a challenging yet rewarding success.  As time and experience unfold each subsequent event gets better – the 2014 Hexenstieg Ultra was no exception.  Micha’s events are minimally supported.  Although you are outfitted with a GPS track, road book and map there are no specific route markings and the distance between aid stations can be very challenging.  I strongly recommend Micha’s events, but you should go into them knowing that you will be running on your previous training and experience.  It’s a very singular experience. 

The Hexenstieg Ultra 2014 was a super event.  Nothing failed on organization, volunteers, friends, challenges and fun.  Count me in for 2015!

Why We Run - Salomon Running

A taste of Thoreau and a tad of Sheehan...  Bernd Heinrich's commentary on Why We Run is peacefully wonderful...

JokerTrail 2014 – Stairway to Heaven

The race begins on a side street in the small town of Dossenheim approximately five kilometers north of Heidelberg on the edge of the Odenwald and ends at the same spot some fifty hilly kilometers later.  The course is a single large loop conjoined with a smaller loop that spurs off to the north of the main loop.  The course, per “Der Hexer’s” (Race Director Michael Frenz) standard procedure is an unmarked maze of hiking and farm paths and single track that flow through the Odenwald.  Navigation is accomplished via GPS and map.  Runners enjoy more than 2000 meters (6561 feet) of quad busting elevation change over the course of the trail.  Planned as a winter season opener conditions can vary from snow and ice to sunshine and moderate temperatures.  Did I mention that a Stairway to Heaven is included?

On 21 February approximately forty-eight runners and guests arrived in the village of Dossenheim at the Hotel Goldener Hirsch for check in, the race briefing and dinner.  We drove up from Stuttgart Friday evening after work to find the Goldener Hirsch filled with excited runners and a super meal.  You could tell from the outset that Michael had put together yet another fantastic event.  Race participants and guests were billeted in the Hotel Goldener Hirsch and Zum Heidelberger Tor which is a five minute walk from race headquarters.

Saturday morning we had breakfast in the Zum Heidelberg Tor and then casually walked to race headquarters for the start.  Start time in 2014 was scheduled for 0830 – easy day with nine and a half hours to complete the course!

At 0835 Micha completed the start count down and forty-eight of us took off to moderate temperatures and sunshine.  We would enjoy sunshine, wind and a bit of rain over the entire day.

The initial phase of the course took us from Dossenheim to Heidelberg.  You could characterize this portion of the course as relatively easy at least to the Himmelsleiter.  Surfaces were mixed tar, hard pack, cobble stone and forest trail.  We dropped down into Heidelberg along the Philosopher’s Walk and then briefly ran along the right side of the Neckar River until crossing just below the Karlstor.

 From the Karlstor we took a nice left hand turn and progressed up to the Heidelberg Castle.  Yeah!  I lived in the Heidelberg area for almost six years and never knew that there was an additional stairway to the Königsstuhl known as the Himmelsleiter, my Stairway to Heaven.  Starting at the Heidelberg Castle the Himmelsleiter includes more than 1200 stairs composed of uneven sandstone steps going up 270 meters (885 feet).  The stairway from the base near the Karlstor to the Königsstuhl is composed of a total 1,600 steps.  The Empire State Building has 1,576, but I digress!

 Traveling from the Königsstuhl to Ziegelhausen was a joy.  The course was composed of hiking trail and single track.  I got slightly misoriented traveling along the Lindenhang because of some downed trees – all good; we were going down hill.

At the base of the Lindenhang we arrived in Schlierbach to cross back across the Neckar into Ziegelhausen and the aid station at the Bäckerei Bernauer.  Again, Micha got this right.  Bäckerei Bernauer was staffed with motivated volunteers outfitted with a cornucopia of baked goods, fruit, coffee, tea, cola and water.  From Bäckerei Bernauer we traveled up hill again along single track and forest trails to the aid station at KM 28.  

 The aid station at KM 28 marked the start of the 14KM off-shoot loop that lies to the north of the main course.  This section of the course was composed of relatively easy trails and forest path characterized by a good amount of climbing.  I hit my low point of the day between Lepoldsgrund and Darmut when we left any generally established trails and moved straight up hill.  It was great to link up with Bianca Schwede and Thomas Lehmann near Darmut.  The three of us ran the remainder of the course together chatting and generally having a super time.

After completing the 14KM mini loop near the Dossenheimer Kopf we traveled up a slight incline to the Weissen Stein.  With six kilometers left to the finish we enjoyed the single track through the forest and brambles leading back into Dossenheim and the finish line at the Hotel Goldener Hirsch.  Inside the hotel we were greeted by applause, smiling faces, cake and coffee and a hot shower.  What more can you ask for?

This challenging trail event came at a cost of seven hours and twenty-five minutes which in my mind was worth every minute.  Events like the JokerTrail are among my favorites.  They are generally “by invitation only” and the running field is relatively small which makes them friendly and noncommercial.

Each event I’ve participated in that was hosted by Micha has been a success.  They each get better with the experience of the last.  Lack of any trail marking; complete reliance on your orientation skills; and complete self-sufficiency ensure that there are no “gimmy” runs at an event hosted Der Hexer.  Ensure that you are well conditioned because the race course will include challenging surprises, twists in navigation, and the occasional opportunity to get disoriented.  Truthfully, my kind of event!

The JokerTrail 2014 included forty-eight starters and forty-seven finishers.  Stefan Helbig and Michael Arend led the race completing in 5:35.  Bianca Schwede took the women’s win in 7:25!  The limited race support and aid stations (total of three and half) were super.  Race volunteers were composed of racer friends and family and made a huge difference over the course of the day for all of us.  My thanks to all of the volunteers!  Registration for the 2014 JokerTrail cost 95 Euro and included a race tee-shirt, overnight with breakfast in one of the two hotels, aid station support, race completion certificate, a hot shower and cake and coffee following the event. 

Michael Frenz (Der Hexer) put on a super event with the JokerTrail 2014.  Count me in if this race goes again in 2015!