Ramble On… 2017 Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail

Leaves are falling all around, it’s time I was on my way
Thanks to you, I’m much obliged for such a pleasant stay
But now it’s time for me to go.  The autumn moon lights my way…

Ramble On…

Led Zeppelin’s “Ramble On” provides a perfect introduction for the Pfälzer Weinsteig 100 Mile Ultratrail Race Event.  2017 marked the fourth running of what has become a fall ultratrail classic in the Pfälz in Germany.

This year’s Pfälzer Weinsteig fell on the weekend of 13 October.  The weather here in Germany leading up to the Weinsteig was simply amazing with mild temperatures, lots of sunshine and no rain.  Previous cooler weather and rain provided a beautiful tapestry of fall color.

The Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail takes place in southwestern Germany in the Pfälz, a region known for its vineyards, sandstone mountains and the culinary delicacy “sow stomach”.  A good third of the Pfälz is covered by the Pfälzerwald, Germany’s largest contiguous forested area.  The Pfälzer Weinsteig is in itself a award winning hiking trail that traces the mountainous backbone of the Pfälz.    
The Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail is a one hundred mile invitational trail race.  The race starts at the Deutsches Weintor in Schweigen-Rechtenbach and finishes at the Sport Club in Obersülzen.  The race is open for thirty-four hours with racers further challenged by relatively tight aid station cut offs.  A one hundred mile race poses enough challenges of its own simply given the distance.  What sets the mark here is the combination of the distance and delightful elevation change that occurs over the course.  There are 5,600 meters or 18,372 feet of elevation to climb and descend.  The Pfälzer Weinsteig travels along the sandstone mountain backbone of the central Pfälzerwald.  The course route is marked with red and white hiking trail markings.  These markings are however, a challenge to find and see in the darkness.  The event is semi-antonymous from a support perspective with aid stations situated twenty to thirty kilometers apart.  There are a number of additional unmanned water points and three deliberate check points that ensure that runners remain on course.  Because of my lack of familiarity with the area I was surprised to learn that the combination of the trail, distance, weather, elevation and other environmental factors contribute to a less than fifty-percent finisher rate on the Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail.

(Source: Wikipedia.  Accessed 171022)

I arrived in Obersülzen on Friday afternoon wound up because of work, the horrific traffic conditions on the German roads and this being my first attempt at the Pfälzer Weinsteig.  Greetings from old friends and new ensured that any trepidation was quickly whisked away.

Friday evening we got settled into the Sports Club in Obersülzen where a number of us would attempt to get a few winks of sleep between the inevitable snoring.  After setting up our quarters for the night we drifted to the restaurant and bar area to enjoy a bit of pre-race conversation, find a seat for the race briefing and dinner.  I was pleasantly surprised to see Simon, Elke and Wolfraum whom I’d not seen in what seems like ages.  We had dinner together and talked about the upcoming adventure.  I didn’t hang long Friday evening as I wanted to get a head start on getting my race equipment ready and intuition told me that I would pull the lucky straw and stay awake next to the loudest snorer – fact!  I should buy a lottery ticket with this kind of intuition.

Saturday morning could not have come soon enough…  I was up shortly before 0400 to finalize my equipment and have a bit of breakfast before getting on the bus to travel south to Schweigen-Rechtenbach and our start.  I road the bus to Schweigen-Rechtenbach seated next to and talking with Elke, but was uncertain how I was going approach the next thirty-four hours and with whom I might run.  In the early morning darkness and chasing the need to pee really badly I lost Elke, but found Simon again.  And so…  

The 0700 Pfälzer Weinsteig 100 Mile Ultratrail start found Simon and I running together.  Simon and I had last spent any time together back in 2015 so this was a great opportunity to get caught back up and enjoy the start of a great race weekend.  We got caught up on the last couple of years and talked about loss, family, work, shoes, dream races and all the things that runners talk about when they run.

Simon and I got split up because of one of my many pee breaks – the coffee had made its way through me.  After I stopped for an alcohol free hefeweissen in a beer garden Elke and I teamed up at the second aid station and were to remain together for the remainder of the race.

(Photo:  Laufticker.de)

(Photo:  Laufticker.de)

(Photo:  Laufticker.de)

 Elke and I shared a tremendous adventure as the kilometers and unfolded under foot.  Athletes like she and Karen who sometimes trailed us, but generally led us, blow me away.  Elke and I made a terrific team that I hope to one day match back up again.  Although, she never admitted it, I hope that I was never rude or super negative.  Elke, if you’re reading this – please forgive me again for my propensity to “luft”.  There are things that happen on the trail that should stay out there on the trail (smile).

A hundred miles is a fickle playmate.  Running a hundred miles is joyful; peaceful; powerful; and at times, simple bliss…  In the blink of an eye the magic of 100 miles will shift and become pain; stress; sadness; darkness…  My darkness usually occurs, well, in the dark.  It’s in the hours after two in the morning that I slip into headlamp hypnosis and go to my deep dark place.  It’s here that I battle with suffering and frankly, the edge of sanity.  (Elke, forgive me again if I was talking in my sleep.  Although you and I were physically alone, I swear that there was a third runner with us that drifted in and out of my reality.)

Thich Nhat Hanh teaches that suffering brings about understanding and compassion, which are the true foundations of happiness.  For me this thought embodies part of the magic of trail running and pushing out to one hundred miles and beyond.

(Photo:  Christine Bruhn)

Sunday morning’s dawn saw the departure of my additional running mate and the passing of darkness.  As dawn approached we found ourselves shy of Deidesheim and running into a dense fog that effectively denied us the sun.  This was not necessarily a bad thing as it motivated us to return to elevation and the sun.

My outlook improved dramatically after we put Deidesheim and Bad Durkheim behind us.  I don’t know where it came from, but this is where I caught my second wind.  Aid station five was a wonderful stop.  I don’t know if I’ve ever been that completely pampered in an aid station.  Many thanks to the gentlemen that made me multiple sandwiches (bread, lots of butter, salt, meat spread and pickles.  Fantastic!) and the alcohol free hefeweissen for breakfast!  Oh – And the heated toilet paper was pure bliss!  Frank and his volunteer teammates in aid station six were also fantastic.  I wish that we could have stayed longer, but Elke and I had a rendezvous with a finish.

The last ten kilometers…  All down hill!  Wait…  No, the distance of ten kilometers in Pfalz is actually known as thirteen kilometers with hills elsewhere in the world.  All good…

Rolling into the stadium in Obersülzen was fantastic.  Günther greeted us like royalty and ran the final loop around the football field with us oblivious to the football game that was playing out its final few minutes.

(Photo:  Jürgen Baumann)

In 2017 Max Kirschbaum and Bianca Logé rocked the Pfälzer Weinsteig finishing in 20:52 and 22:58.  Simply phenomenal performances over this challenging, yet obviously, very runnable course.  Elke and I finished in a very proud 33:42! 

The Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail is a truly amazing event.  I am deeply impressed by its warm and friendly atmosphere.  Günther and Christine Bruhn are the hosts, race directors, logisticians, coaches, volunteer coordinators and just down right wonderful people.  One of my favorite things about running trail and endurance events is being among the other runners on the same journey.  Many thanks to all of the people that made the Pfälzer Weinsteig Ultratrail possible.  Race volunteers and people that work aid stations blow me away.  To see you working a station for twelve – twenty-four hours is incredible.  Chapeau!

(Photo:  Jürgen Baumann)

Got no time for spreadin’ roots, the time has come to be gone
And to our health we drank a thousand times, it’s time to ramble on…

2 SUT 100 – Schoenbuch Ultra-Trail

The second running of the Schoenbuch Ultra-Trail (SUT 100) was held 18 – 19 September 2014 in the Schoenbuch Nature Park.  Torrential rains the Thursday and Friday prior to the start of the SUT 100 threatened to deliver typical early Fall German weather.  Uncharacteristically, the weather broke early on Friday and evolved into near perfect running conditions – cool, sunny and no rain.  Beyond the extremely wet and muddy course conditions were exceptional for the twenty-three starters.  Dirk Joos set a course record completing the 100 plus miles in 21:53.  Inge van Bergen, the only female finisher completed her run in 27:31.

The 100+mile event is organized and directed by Andreas Loeffler in the small German village of Dettenhausen.  Andreas initiates the event the Friday evening prior to the start with a relaxed race briefing and pasta party which occurs in the restaurant of the Dettenhausen sport center.  The SUT 100 is a “By Invitation Only” event which ensures a small starter field.  Friday evening provides both an opportunity to get an idea of the course, but also provides runners a chance to meet and socialize with the other runners.  The 2014 “By Invitation Only” starter field is what I’d term an eclectic group.  The runners field included local matadors, someone from China that lives in Norway, a German from Stuttgart that lives in Paris, a Dutchman and woman, Austrians that live in the US, and Americans that live in Germany.

Much like the evening prior the 2014 SUT 100 started with little fanfare and was what many would consider very “chill”.  We twenty-three were all at the sport center well before the start.  Shortly prior to 0800 Andreas gathered us together adjacent to the football field, shared a few last minute details and with little fanfare said, “Go!”

The SUT 100 course is a point-to-point route which loops around much of the perimeter of the Schoenbuch Nature Park.  The race is limited by a thirty hour time limit with a number of cut offs sprinkled at various VPs.  The SUT course features (I’m guessing) about seventy five miles of very single track trail.  Tim Scott characterized the course as “very runnable”.  I have somewhat different opinion as my recollections indicate that the trail offered difficult footing because of rocks, roots, deadfall, abrupt climbs and descents, standing water and mud.  Of the approximately 4064m of elevation change much of the climbing occurs over the last third of the course – Yes!  Although the course was very well marked I would not run the SUT 100 without a GPS.  There were portions of the course where the markings had been removed or it was simply so dark in the forest that you could not navigate to the next point without a GPS.  Seven aid stations (VPs) support the event with pacers authorized after VP 5.  For a 100+mile course the distribution and number of VPs provides an additional challenge for runners forcing you to ensure that you have enough to eat and drink between approximate twenty kilometers between VPs.  Support at each VP was exceptional as each provided wonderful volunteers that catered to your every wish and a cornucopia of beverages and food.

Jin Cao and Dirk Joos led early with very solid times into the first VP.  They would dominate the race throughout the next twenty-plus hours.  Over the course of the event we lost eight runners to various issues and at various distances. Thankfully there were no serious injuries or accidents.  Tim Scott and I approached the 2014 SUT 100 very conservatively as our various VP gates demonstrate.  I had a great time running with him, Tom, Johannes and the various others that we joined or that joined us over the course of this long distance adventure.  As I’ve said before, an ultra of this character is a singularly personal experience and endeavor; it is always great to work through the inevitable challenges with someone else.  I think that Tim and I compliment one another in our approach and I hope to tackle another adventure with him in the not too distant future.

Highpoints of my race included a number of different locations and experiences.  Jürgen Baumann and his wife who hosted VPs 1 and 6 are simply fantastic.  Jürgen is himself a very accomplished ultra-runner and knows how to cater to your each and every need.  Roman Schaictal and VP 7.  Roman – I was a little mentally “checked out” by the time I got to your VP.  Thanks for sharing the laughs!  I’ve been running in the Schoenbuch for going on six years, but had no idea that there was so much excellent single track to explore and run.  My compliments to Andreas on his course – simply exceptional!  My thanks and compliments to the Schoenbuch Braumanufaktur.  I generally do not like their beer.  However, they brew an excellent alcohol free Hefeweissen that I got to enjoy at each VP.

Low points…  Na – None for me.  As Tim said, “the SUT offers a very runnable course”.  OK…  There were a few, but not as many as I feared as I toed the start line on Saturday morning.  The night, a sliver of a moon when it finally came up, the arch of your reality becomes only the light which your dying headlamp casts at your feet.  Fortunately, my low hit an hour or so before the sun came up on Sunday morning.  While in this low I consciously and deliberately monitored my food and beverage intake and focused on casting out any negative thoughts.  I really worked to see negativity as clouds that would drift in.  I made a focused effort to mentally watch them blow away.  For me, events of this character come down to mental and motivational fortitude.  No kidding, yes, it is going to physically suck, but the mind and your spirit can accomplish much more than you appreciate sitting there reading this or while out on the trail.  Embrace the darkness and demand that it is your own.

The SUT 100 is an exceptional trail running event!  There were no shortages or failures associated with the organization.  Race volunteers are a wonderful group of people – my thanks to each and everyone of you that supported our running of the SUT 100.  (I’m still looking for the address of the farmer from Nufringen that provided the potatoes. Simply wonderful!)  Count me in for the 2016 SUT 100!

100MeilenBerlin – Berlin Mauerweglauf

“If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten.”  Rudyard Kipling

The 16th of August 2014 saw the third running of the Berlin Mauerweglauf or 100MeilenBerlin.  Like many aspects of this great 100-miler its running date is tied to a historical event or memory.  This one marks the official start of construction of the Berlin Wall which occurred on 13 August 1961.  Each ultramarathon I’ve run is unique on many levels; the Mauerweglauf is individually unique to any of the other running adventures I’ve pursued.  Established as a memorial event to recognize the terror of the Berlin Wall, it is singularly focused on the circumstances and rich historical background that shape your every step along its course.

The 100MeilenBerlin honors the memory of one of the victims of the German Democratic Republic that lost their lives along the Berlin Wall.  2014 was held in memory of Peter Fechter who, on 17 August 1962, was shot and left to bleed out in the death zone between East and West Berlin.

The course of the Berlin Mauerweglauf is almost identical to that of the official trace of the Berlin Wall.  Orange colored posts, memorial crosses, remnants of the wall and watch towers remind travelers of this path of victims of this border.  At least 136 people lost their lives along this border between 1961 and 1989.

As a student of history or simply curious tourist of Berlin you may have the opportunity to visit several monuments in the heart of Berlin near the Wall or perhaps the Memorial Center Berliner Mauer on the Bernauer Strasse.  The Memorial Center provides a singular experience in the construction of and life with the Berlin Wall.  Each offer an important, but singular glimpse into the past.  Only by following the course of the Berliner Mauerweg can you begin to develop a deeper appreciation of the scale of the crime that occurred here.  Over the course of its path memorial sites and markers slowly unveil glimpses into the hundreds of attempts at freedom and their individual stories that occurred here for more than twenty-eight years.  This story unfolding, over the course of 100 miles was my deepest experience during this year’s Berlin Mauerweglauf.  Contemplation of its significance filled many hours of my day as I coursed over the Berliner Mauerweg.

 
The 2014 Berlin Mauerweglauf started in the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion and coursed in a clockwise direction over its 100 miles.  Course direction changes are becoming a tradition of this race as they have switched each year.  The race course is supported by twenty-seven rest stops with VP1 located on the Zimmerstrasse at the Peter Fechter Memorial.  The last rest stop at 157.9KM is located on the Wlollankstrasse and is provided as help for the final push into the Finish located again in the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion.  Included within the twenty-seven rest stops were three “Change Points” located at Sporthalle Teltow, Schloss Sacrow and in Henningsdorf at the Oberhavel Rudder Club.  Change Points provided runners an opportunity to pick up a drop back, change clothes and take on any additional supplies they may have required.  They also served as “Cut Off” stations for race time limits.  

The 2014 Berlin Mauerweglauf was my second deliberate 100 Mile Road Race.  I’ve run a several other events of greater distance, but they were not characterized like this 100 Mile event.  The 100MeilenBerlin is a road race with largely flat surfaces that course over roads, asphalted or cobblestone streets or semi-improved road surfaces.  I was glad that I chose my Hokas as my race shoes as I’m afraid that any other shoe would have smoked my feet.

The Langstrekenlauf-Gemeinschaft Mauerweg (LG Mauerweg) serves as the lead organizer and supporter of the 100MeilenBerlin.  LG Mauerweg’s design and support of the 100MeilenBerlin was first class down to the smallest detail.  I was particularly impressed with pre-race activities via their web site, runners care, an extensive network of superb race volunteers, course marking and the unique drop bag solution that was employed.  Pre-race activities in Berlin were outstanding with race headquarters located at the Ramada Hotel on the Alexander Platz.  These activities included final race check-in, the pasta dinner, race briefing and pre-race breakfast.

The 100MeilenBerlin started at 0600 with a loop around the track of the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion.  The race field remained largely compact and together as we traveled through the first ten kilometers of empty streets in Berlin.  I was entertained by the “typical German” nature of stopping at street crossings as we’d been told that we would be pulled from the race if we failed to comply with traffic laws.  This bit was nice as we all got warmed up to the race and one another.  

Running at this time of day on a Saturday in Berlin was exceptional as we passed the Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate and other significant sites.

 
Running to the first Change Point at KM 58.82 and the Sporthalle Teltow was relatively uneventful for me.  I concentrated on finding my groove and working to still the “Monkey Mind” that plays havoc in early parts of a run for me.  The course was supported with nine aid stations to this point.  Going with the thought of fueling early I probably spent too much time in these nine stations.  At the Sporthalle in Teltow I restocked on energy bars and gels and refilled my water bottles.  I had packed a change of clothes, but did not use any of my spares.  Leaving Teltow the weather was good with sunshine and mild temperatures.

The going from Teltow to Schloss Sacrow (91KM) was pretty smooth.  I ran for a period with a German from Muenster that had studied Business in the US.  He and I chatted for a couple of hours, but got separated as I stopped to put on a rain jacket during a downpour.  I rolled into Schloss Sacrow with a quick turn plan in mind and was able to eat a bit of solid food and restock my pack’s supplies and get back out relatively quickly.  Going back out of this Check Point I felt solid.

A rest station or two after Schloss Sacrow I slammed three cups of cola and crammed several handfuls of nuts and fruit down in an effort to clear the station quickly.  Not a good move…  At about 110KM I became very nauseated and suffered from extreme stomach cramps.  I had not had a GI issue like this in a couple of years.  Like many things that you can’t or don’t practice I got very worried that this GI issue was going to undo my run.  I wanted/needed to throw-up, but was worried about doing so.  Not long thereafter the choice was taken from me and I blew up on the side of the road – twice!  I was pleasantly surprised with the relief that blowing up like this brought.  My stomach cramps and nausea immediately ended and my disposition and outlook immediately cleared up.  My lowest point came between 123 and 132KMs.  I think that this came on as I had cleared my gut and was low on fuel.  I refueled (at a little solid food) and drank a Red Bull at the final Check Point at the Oberhavel Rudder Club.  I remained somewhat down even after this final Check Point as I needed to poop several times which I thought was slowing me down a lot.

At 138KMs I “hitched a ride” with a German runner that was moving a bit quicker than I.  By hitching a ride I mean I drafted in behind this runner and used his rhythm and speed to pull me forward.  Not to be rude I passed him; tried to chat him up and led for a while.  He passed me; refused to talk and kept on going.  One of those dudes that was just in his place and moving on.  I hitched with him off and on until about 150KMs after which we went our separate ways. 

The last ten or so kilometers of the 100MeilenBerlin contained three aid stations.  Other than a lot of kilometers this race included a lot of aid stations!  I won’t say that I didn’t appreciate them, but will say that I didn’t use them this year.  I passed through these last stations only to register my timing chip and head back to the finish.  That last stretch between VP 27 (157.90KM) and the Finish (161.86KM) was one of the longest 3.96KMs I’ve traveled.  At VP 27 I attempted to frame the distance to a training track I use at home, mentally trying to associate the two with where I might be on the home course.  The mind can be a very powerful friend or simply a pain in the ass.  (smile)

After what seemed an eternity of four kilometers I finally rolled back onto the track in the Fredrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Stadion for my final lap.  At first I was alone on the track, but then Karl Rohwedder and Cornelia Balke pulled up behind me out of what seemed no where.  I had not seen them over the entire course of the last day, having hoped to do so much earlier.  Cornelia and Karl suggested we jog the last lap together and we wound up crossing the finish line holding hands.  A super way to finish a fantastic event!

The 16th of August is a historical landmark in the greater history of the division of Germany and Europe.  The Berlin Mauerweglauf affords a meaningful way to maintain the stories associated with this history and their significance.  Personally the Berlin Mauerweglauf afforded me with a 100 Mile Personal Best allowing me to finish the distance in race conditions in under twenty-four hours.  The wider race field did very well.  Of the 285 starters 211 finished.  The winner, Mark Perkins finished in an amazing 13:06 with the women’s winner, Grit Seidel, finishing in a solid 18:16.

My hat is off to Dr. Ronald Musil, LG Mauerweg, and all of the folks that supported the planning, coordination and conduct of this superb 100 Mile Road Race.  The 100MeilenBerlin is a fantastic event that I have added to my list of races to run again and again!