JokerTrail 2014 – Stairway to Heaven

The race begins on a side street in the small town of Dossenheim approximately five kilometers north of Heidelberg on the edge of the Odenwald and ends at the same spot some fifty hilly kilometers later.  The course is a single large loop conjoined with a smaller loop that spurs off to the north of the main loop.  The course, per “Der Hexer’s” (Race Director Michael Frenz) standard procedure is an unmarked maze of hiking and farm paths and single track that flow through the Odenwald.  Navigation is accomplished via GPS and map.  Runners enjoy more than 2000 meters (6561 feet) of quad busting elevation change over the course of the trail.  Planned as a winter season opener conditions can vary from snow and ice to sunshine and moderate temperatures.  Did I mention that a Stairway to Heaven is included?

On 21 February approximately forty-eight runners and guests arrived in the village of Dossenheim at the Hotel Goldener Hirsch for check in, the race briefing and dinner.  We drove up from Stuttgart Friday evening after work to find the Goldener Hirsch filled with excited runners and a super meal.  You could tell from the outset that Michael had put together yet another fantastic event.  Race participants and guests were billeted in the Hotel Goldener Hirsch and Zum Heidelberger Tor which is a five minute walk from race headquarters.

Saturday morning we had breakfast in the Zum Heidelberg Tor and then casually walked to race headquarters for the start.  Start time in 2014 was scheduled for 0830 – easy day with nine and a half hours to complete the course!

At 0835 Micha completed the start count down and forty-eight of us took off to moderate temperatures and sunshine.  We would enjoy sunshine, wind and a bit of rain over the entire day.

The initial phase of the course took us from Dossenheim to Heidelberg.  You could characterize this portion of the course as relatively easy at least to the Himmelsleiter.  Surfaces were mixed tar, hard pack, cobble stone and forest trail.  We dropped down into Heidelberg along the Philosopher’s Walk and then briefly ran along the right side of the Neckar River until crossing just below the Karlstor.

 From the Karlstor we took a nice left hand turn and progressed up to the Heidelberg Castle.  Yeah!  I lived in the Heidelberg area for almost six years and never knew that there was an additional stairway to the Königsstuhl known as the Himmelsleiter, my Stairway to Heaven.  Starting at the Heidelberg Castle the Himmelsleiter includes more than 1200 stairs composed of uneven sandstone steps going up 270 meters (885 feet).  The stairway from the base near the Karlstor to the Königsstuhl is composed of a total 1,600 steps.  The Empire State Building has 1,576, but I digress!

 Traveling from the Königsstuhl to Ziegelhausen was a joy.  The course was composed of hiking trail and single track.  I got slightly misoriented traveling along the Lindenhang because of some downed trees – all good; we were going down hill.

At the base of the Lindenhang we arrived in Schlierbach to cross back across the Neckar into Ziegelhausen and the aid station at the Bäckerei Bernauer.  Again, Micha got this right.  Bäckerei Bernauer was staffed with motivated volunteers outfitted with a cornucopia of baked goods, fruit, coffee, tea, cola and water.  From Bäckerei Bernauer we traveled up hill again along single track and forest trails to the aid station at KM 28.  

 The aid station at KM 28 marked the start of the 14KM off-shoot loop that lies to the north of the main course.  This section of the course was composed of relatively easy trails and forest path characterized by a good amount of climbing.  I hit my low point of the day between Lepoldsgrund and Darmut when we left any generally established trails and moved straight up hill.  It was great to link up with Bianca Schwede and Thomas Lehmann near Darmut.  The three of us ran the remainder of the course together chatting and generally having a super time.

After completing the 14KM mini loop near the Dossenheimer Kopf we traveled up a slight incline to the Weissen Stein.  With six kilometers left to the finish we enjoyed the single track through the forest and brambles leading back into Dossenheim and the finish line at the Hotel Goldener Hirsch.  Inside the hotel we were greeted by applause, smiling faces, cake and coffee and a hot shower.  What more can you ask for?

This challenging trail event came at a cost of seven hours and twenty-five minutes which in my mind was worth every minute.  Events like the JokerTrail are among my favorites.  They are generally “by invitation only” and the running field is relatively small which makes them friendly and noncommercial.

Each event I’ve participated in that was hosted by Micha has been a success.  They each get better with the experience of the last.  Lack of any trail marking; complete reliance on your orientation skills; and complete self-sufficiency ensure that there are no “gimmy” runs at an event hosted Der Hexer.  Ensure that you are well conditioned because the race course will include challenging surprises, twists in navigation, and the occasional opportunity to get disoriented.  Truthfully, my kind of event!

The JokerTrail 2014 included forty-eight starters and forty-seven finishers.  Stefan Helbig and Michael Arend led the race completing in 5:35.  Bianca Schwede took the women’s win in 7:25!  The limited race support and aid stations (total of three and half) were super.  Race volunteers were composed of racer friends and family and made a huge difference over the course of the day for all of us.  My thanks to all of the volunteers!  Registration for the 2014 JokerTrail cost 95 Euro and included a race tee-shirt, overnight with breakfast in one of the two hotels, aid station support, race completion certificate, a hot shower and cake and coffee following the event. 

Michael Frenz (Der Hexer) put on a super event with the JokerTrail 2014.  Count me in if this race goes again in 2015!

Week in Running 31.12 - 6.01.13

This past week, the first of 2013 was a fantastic training week!  Am slowly increasing my mileage and continue the battle for time to get out and run some longer routes.

Early in the week I got in my usual fair of 10 and 13KM routes.  With few exceptions I can get one of these in before heading out for work.  I thought I could get in a doubleheader on Thursday and thankfully got in nice 10KM out here...

Not being the master of my own schedule the doubleheader fell by the way side based on things at work.  Starting out in the morning I almost convinced myself to stay in (it will be daylight this afternoon and you'll have time to do at least a 20KM), but thankfully I didn't.

I took Friday off to rest a bit with plans to run a B2B this weekend.  Saturday I got in a 35KM.   This morning I ran a Venusberg route and added a new route because of the Dreikoenigslauf (I completely forgot that it was going on today.).  Today's route took me over 20KM of wonderful countryside.

Next week is another UP week with increased mileage.  We'll see where it goes...

Röntgenlauf 2012

What a great way to close out October and this year's running season!  The XII edition of the Remscheid Röntgenlauf offered perfect weather, a super course, a mid-sized starting field and a super route along the Röntgenweg.

In it's twelve year, the Röntgenlauf is a 63.3KM ultramarathon which additionally offers a marathon, halfmarathon, various relays for each distance and walking options along the Röntgenweg.  475 runners were signed up to start the ultramarathon this year with thousands more lined up shortly before 0830 to start each of the events.

I've admired the Röntgenlauf from afar a number of years and decided to give it a go earlier this year.  It's definitely a race worth adding to your list of events to complete.

Race day started out cold and foggy.  We actually had our first snow Saturday morning prior to departing for Remscheid.

At 0830 all categories of runners (the entire starting field) started the event.  I have to admit that the course was rather full early in the race, but this worked itself out nicely as we coursed through the streets of Remscheid and Lennep and then over to farm to market roads and eventually over to trail.

 Aside from the cold and on and off again foggy weather the course was simply fantastic. Challenge was related to the sun coming out and sweating and then the fog rolling back in and freezing.  I really didn't warm up and get dry until after the marathon distance.

The Röntgenlauf course follows the Röntgenweg and is a round, point-to-point course.  The course route is mixed pavement, gravel, hardpack, and trail over rolling hills and through creek and river valleys.  You pass through beautiful forests, along lovely lakes and past historical buildings that were built during the industrialization of the region in the early 1900s.  I had not paid much attention to the bridge shown below going into the leg (it's illustrated on the Röntgenlauf start site, tee-shirt and medal), but upon arriving at it was deeply impressed.  This is Germany's highest rail bridge.  Unfortunately this picture does not do it just - it's impressive!

The Röntgenlauf is organized so that after registration you can run any of the events you choose.  So that, if you signed up for the marathon, and you're having a great day and feeling a little gutsy, you can run the ultra.  The opposite holds true as well.  Runners that complete the half, marathon and ultra receive a medal.  All runners receive a tee-shirt as part of their starter package.


Similar to most of the races I've run the spectators and race volunteers make these events memorable.  The Röntgenlauf was no exception.  There were thousands of spectators along the route.  It was as if the Röntgenlauf was the event to be at on 28 OCT.  Race volunteers are a special group of people.  A big thanks goes out to all that supported the organization, management, backside support and the pit stops along the way!

 Registration for the Röntgenlauf started out at a very fair 39 Euros.  This price increased over time up until the day of the race ending at 45 Euros.  Registration provided a start number, tee-shirt, medal, on-line certificate and race support.  Registration was possible via the Röntgenlauf web site and at the race site itself.

Race support was efficient and complete over the entire course with first aid, police, road guards and very effective route marking.  The only down side from my perspective was the limited amount of fare at the pit stops.  Out until 22KMs water and tea were served.  After the check point at 22KM bananas and limited amounts of cola and chocolate were available.  I carried my own food and most of my own drinks in my pack and encourage anyone attempting the ultra to do the same.  Bananas are just not going to get it...

All told the Röntgenlauf is a challenging super end of season event.  Of the 475 original ultra runners signed up to race 364 completed the 63.3KM course.  The region is wonderful to visit and the Röntgenweg is worth a visit in and of itself.  We'll be back...

Lass die Sau raus...

Another good training week this past week.  This week's focus was on speed work mixing fast 10Ks with hill work and Farleks on Tuesday and Thursday.

The ankle injury I was dealing with from the TU seems to have resolved itself.  The plan for the coming week is to concentrate on distance and endurance.

I've missed this carving that is located in at the southern tip of the Kasparsbrunnen-Ried-Binn forest near Aidlingen almost all summer.  She is well hidden in the bushes just off of the trail.

Recovery

Have not posted much here since the thüringenULTRA.  You know how that goes with work, family and all of the other "important" things that can occupy so much of our time.

The last couple of weeks have found me recovering from the TU and a twisted ankle which continues to bother me a bit.  At the time that I torqued my ankle at the TU I didn't think that it was that big of deal, but it has slowed me down a bit since.  The way I see it, it's all good.  I needed a bit of a break.

All that said, this past week was a pretty good training week.  Am now concentrating on a slow build towards either the Voralpenmarathon in late September or the Roentgenlauf in late October.  I'm registered for the Roentgenlauf and just may turn this into a back-to-back goal.

I capped this training week off with an excellent 16KM this morning.  You can't beat getting out in the woods early around here...

The Countdown has Started

for the ThueringenULTRA...  

Am a bit concerned going into this as I've not confirmed all of my plans for the race.  I still don't know if/when I'll be able to get off on Friday.  I need to get out early in order to get over to Froettstadt to do my final race check in.  The race starts at 0400 on Saturday which is pushing me to get over there Friday evening.  Work has me flying by the seat of my pants right now...

Nonetheless...  Last week was a pretty good training week.  The hamstring injury I developed a couple of weeks ago seems to have subsided.  It is no longer bothering while resting and does not seem to bother me while running distance.

All of training routes this past week were beyond 13KM except for Monday.  Have been lazy today given the thunderstorms we're having this weekend.  The rain doesn't bother me, but I'd hate to be out between here and Holzgerlingen and get caught up in some of the lightening we've had all day!

Roll on out there...

One of my favorite "Anti-Commute" locations taken between Vaihingen and Boeblingen on the A8 going south.  Shot was taken from the Roemerstrasse Bridge.

Week in Training - 17 June

I spent this past week concentrating largely on a temporary/new job I've taken on.  My biggest challenge is balancing work and personal issues with working out.  All things considered this turned out to be a pretty good week leading up to the ThüringenULTRA which is scheduled for the first weekend in July.

Monday - 10KM, Panzerstrasse, 150lbs

Tuesday - 10KM, Panzerstrasse, 150lbs

Wednesday - Lift, Legs (It was raining cats and dogs), 148lbs

Thursday - 13KM, Bärensee, 147lbs

Friday - 10KM, Sonnenalle, 147lbs

Saturday - 21KM, Holzgerlingenhauslauf, 147lbs

Sunday - 21KM, Grafenaulauf, 145lbs

The back-to-back halves were a surprise as I'd not done one of those since May.  No issues on either with good times to boot (1:45 on Saturday and 1:50 on Sunday).

Total Mileage:  85KM

Let's see what the next week brings...

So Cool...

I found this monument to "something" while running this week out in the Lauchäcker.

It illustrates another of the reasons I like living and running here...

 

Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux 2012 II

Gigondas; it’s still dark at 0430 on Saturday, 19 May 2012…  It’s drizzling and 119 of us kick off to "rescapé" Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux.  As we set out my thoughts are not on this race.  I’m not motivated and allow a lot of negativity to creep in.  I spoke briefly with Geert Ceuppens and focused on getting my head in the game for the first eighteen kilometers of what looks like is going to be a long day.

About twenty minutes into the race I decide to pull off the trail and relieve myself.  As I do so I watch the course of head lights pass and think that I’m still in pretty good standing at mid-pack.  After getting straight I head back out on the trail and find myself alone…  Slowly as the sun creeps into the cracks, canyons and crannies of the Dentelles Montmirail I make out a woman in front of me.  I run behind her for some distance when she asks “Passe Vous”?  I respond in my pigeon French that no, I’m not interested in passing – all is good back here.  She and I get into a groove and come to a forest path where we can run side-by-side.  She introduces herself as Isabelle and kicks up a conversation.  Dear, Isabelle…  She could not speak a word of English and my French is horrible.  Nonetheless, Isabelle goes on and on as we pass over hill and dale.  Seems as if she's sharing her life story and much more...  Suddenly we arrived at a hardball road; there is no trail marking.  GREAT!  This takes me back to 2009 when Dino Verones and I got lost for hours.  Confidently, Isabelle takes off to the left and I follow.

Isabelle and I ran downhill for twenty minutes or so, talking, and I’m thinking none of this looks familiar...  Oh shit!  Do not panic...  OH SHIT!  We’re friggen lost.  We jog on for a bit when her husband shows up in an SUV and asks where we’re going.  Isabelle explains that we are lost and looking for the trail.  He suggests that we turn around and go back to where we last lost the trail which we did.  My mind is racing right along with the clock.  We must be at the check point at Lac du Paty completing the first eighteen kilometer leg by 0800.  This is not good!

We wonder about for what seems like forever and finally come across the dreaded sweeper and his team of trailer cleaners removing trail markings.  Isabelle spoke briefly with them; confirmed our route and we were off again.  This is one of my absolute dreaded points in any trail race.  The sweeper is here and very close to me; time is running out to the make the check point and there will be not time in the check point to drink or eat anything.  This is UTMB 2011 all over again! 

I ran with Isabelle for a while longer and have now found the motivation I was missing when the race started.  I bid Isabelle farewell and took off to attempt to gain some time.  I know this part of the course and know where I can kick it and where I need to take it easy.  Slowly, every so slowly I begin to gain some time back.  I passed one runner after another and have finally got six or eight people behind me when I roll into Lac du Paty.  I greeted everyone in the best Texas accent I could throw out; drank two cups of water; asked one of the race volunteers for a drag from his cigarette (he laughed, but refused) and I roll out of Lac du Paty headed out over the next twelve kilometers to the check point at Curnier where I’ve got to be by 1030.

Getting to Lac du Paty I gained a thirty minute buffer back into my race plan.  I don’t like running this close to the cut off times as the terrain or your physical condition is going to ultimately take a toll and steal it back from you.  This portion of the route to Curnier is good; rolling but good and I continue to gain on runners and the clock.  Prior to bounding into Curnier I meet again with Isabelle’s husband who cheers me on.  I ask about Isabelle and he tells me that she is still in the race.  The check point at Curnier is the last full scale rest stop prior to the assault up Mont Ventoux.  I know this check point well and know that my bags will be checked.  I have gained about a forty-five minute buffer on the time barriers and roll into Curnier with a plan to restock water; eat as much and as quickly as I can while organizing my stuff.  At Curnier I again use a Texas dialect to ensure that the fellas know that they must speak English with me so that we’re clear on what they want to see.  Check out was easy this year; dude asked to see my wind breaker and emergency blanket.  With that completed I blast back out of the check point with apples in hand.  Leaving Curnier I had approximately twenty runners behind me.

The assault on Mont Ventoux is ten kilometers long and moves up a vertical ascent of 1610 meters with an average gradient of 7.5% and a maximum gradient of greater than 12%.  Cut off time to get to the check point on the summit Mont Ventoux as 1415.  I set out to get there around noon in order to take back some more of the time allocated for the time barriers.  I knew that the course after coming off of Ventoux and after Brantes is what I term the doldrums.  The doldrums are long uneventful stretches that although not extremely physically demanding are certainly mentally demanding.

Traveling up Mont Ventoux I was able to pass a number of additional runners.  I think that the majority of those folks I passed were new to the course and relatively new to trail and mountain ultra running.  Many did not have the right equipment or were dragging way too early in this race.  At this point in the course I felt physically and mentally well.  I know the terrain and enjoyed the freedom and beauty of the environment.  On the way up I came across a runner laying on the ground appearing to stretch his quads.  I asked “Ça Va?” and he replied with no – his quads kept tightening up.  So, in broken French and English we worked out me stretching him a bit.  Turns out he and I would cross paths again…

Just prior to moving onto the talus field prior to the final assault on Mont Ventoux the Rotary Club posts a water station just within the last wood line.  Going into this station I planned to drink a couple of cups of water and keep moving.  I was a bit let down to watch and hear two or three runners working with the race volunteers to drop.  Seeing people drop is contagious and I decided to move on without looking back.

Moving up the last approach to the summit of Mont Ventoux as largely uneventful.  Although it was a beautiful day the wind was kicking as I increased my elevation.  My thoughts focused on getting to the summit, my plan for the rest stop (eat) and getting back down off of Mont Ventoux.  I arrived at the check point at about 1210; dropped my pack and immediately put on my jacket and moved into the garage the point was located in.  Although it was freezing on top of Mont Ventoux there were thousands of people there.  Pedestrians, bicyclists and many more were milling about doing whatever Frenchmen do on Mont Ventoux on a lovely spring day.  After restocking my pockets and water and eating a lot of fruit, cheese, chips and three cups of soup I decided to move onward to Brantes.  At this juncture I was about an hour ahead of cut off times and felt good other than freezing my butt off…

Djam and I headed into the check point at Brantes.

Oh the lovely fourteen kilometer descent into Brantes.  And, no we didn’t get to take the road – it was all hiking paths for us…  Once you get back down off of what seems like infinite switch backs you head into one of the first portions of this course that I call the doldrums.  The trail consists of logging roads that slowly wind their way down into a valley before heading dramatically back up to Brantes.  It was here that I was to meet Djamel Groiuez (the same guy I stretched out on the way up Mont Ventoux).  For some reason “Djam” and I hit it off immediately and stuck it out with one another through the completion of the race.  As it turns out Djam served twenty-two years with the French paratroopers so we had much to talk about.

From Brantes we traveled along the path of Le Toulourenc and the backbone of the Combe de Réchaume to the check point at Veaux.  Following Brantes Djam’s lovely wife met and cared for us at each following aid station and check point. 

From Veaux I began to have GI issues with a lot of gas and then various bouts of diarrhea.  I’m not certain what brought this distress on, whether it was something I’d eaten, the energy food I was eating or what.  Whatever it was it cursed me and unfortunately I could not express to Djam how much I appreciated him waiting on me each time I had to take a break for a couple of minutes.  Other than my unfolding battle with my gut the trail from Veaux to Le Rissas was relatively uneventful. 

Things again got exciting on our way down from La Rissas to Le Groseau.  You have to love the French and the way they mark trails, or not mark them.  Djam and I were cruising along making good time with lots of daylight and buffer time before the cut off of 2300 at Le Groseau when we ran into Malaucène.  Again, I did not recognize this part of the course, but knew yet again I needed to hit the wood line.  We jogged into town and Djam waved down a passing car.  He spoke with the driver and asked him to go find the check point at Le Groseau which was supposed to be located somewhere on the outskirts of Malaucène.  Unbelievably, the guy agreed to Djam’s demands and sped off.  A few minutes later he returned and told us that the check point was in fact in place; where it was and the distance.  With much joy Djam and I headed back out of town to go find where we’d last seen a race marker and attempt to find the course.  All told I wound up covering 110 – 115 kilometers of 100 kilometer race course.  That dear friends is cool!  (Note heavy sarcasm.) 

We finally closed on Le Groseau with about an hour and a half buffer.  Djam sat down and his wife started caring for us.  I had a cup of soup and told them both that I was off to hit the other side of the trail and the wood line.  I told Djam I’d wait for him there.

By the time Djam came up the trail looking for me darkness had again completely fallen and we started our movement to Saint-Amand with the aid of head lamps.  Movement during this part of the course is deceiving.  Your mind is focused on the fact that you are within twenty kilometers of finishing, the lure of your headlamp and the terrain.  Passing Clairer and Les Gippières you are lulled into thinking that the course is smooth going over undulating forest paths and roads.  And yes, this in fact is the case if you are a normal hiker as there is a straight path to Saint-Amand.  But no, Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux is not for the “normal” or weak of disposition. 

Shortly before arriving at Vallat de la Chaine the course takes an immediate right turn and you abruptly head up hill oriented on Col de la Chaine where you take another abrupt turn left and head directly up and over Dentelles de Montmirail.  When we arrived at the summit the wind was honking and we hurried back down the other side to roll into the rest stop at Saint-Amand and kilometer 91.
The rest stop at Saint-Amand was this year’s highlight for me.  We arrived to the sound of drums, horns, disco lights, “Allez!  Allez!” and a warm blanket.  Saint-Amand was the first check point where anyone offered us cola and Djam and I drank several cups and ate a few snacks.

From Saint-Amand it’s a mere nine kilometers to Gigondas and the finish line.  Fortunately much of this part of the course moves through the Vallat de Fenouillet.  By this time of this year’s race I as burned hard.  I had horrible blisters again on both feet.  Think that they were caused by a combination of wearing shoes that were too large from the outset, gravel in my shoes and the condition of my feet going into this race following the Hexenstieg a few weeks earlier.  I could not keep up with Djam’s stride.  Although we were both moving at the same pace his stride was much longer than mine at this point and we were both getting tired of waiting for me.  As the course progressed he would get way out ahead of me; stop and wait; gather me up and we’d move out again. 

A kilometer or so out of town Djam’s wife and another guy met us in the dark.  It was great to see them!  Djam and I picked up a slow airborne shuffle and made our way over the cobblestones of Gigondas’ main street.  As we ran Catherine surprised me telling me that she’d met my wife.  I asked her where and she told me in Gigondas.  I could not believe my ears.  “Simone is in Gigondas?” I asked.  And she said, “Yes – at the Community Center”.  It was almost 0230 on Sunday morning and Simone as waiting for me...  That my friends was the crowning moment of the entire last twenty-one hours and fifty-six minutes.  

Djam and I finished the 2012 Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux together taking the 73d and 74th places.  Of the original 119 starters 77 were to finish...  Super race.  Beautiful country!

Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux 2012 I

We’re still recovering after a great long weekend in Provence so this is a quick visit here.  I’ll follow-up with a few more impressions from Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux in the next few days.  For now a bit of an introduction... 

My latest adventure included my third running and the thirteenth edition of Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux 19 – 20 May 2012.  Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux is a 100KM charity trail race coursing primarily along the paths and trails of the Dentelles de Montmirail and the Mont Ventoux Massif.  The Raid International Organization and the Rotary Clubs of Avignon Fontaine de Vaucluse, Avignon Villeneuve, Carpentras, Orange , Orange Arausio host Le Grand Raid Denvelles Ventoux each year.  All registration costs and any donations benefit The Association Francophone des Glycogénoses and research of Glycogénoses. 

The centerpiece of Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux’s 100KM course is a foot assault up the southern approach of Mont Ventoux.   Mont Ventoux is legendary among bicyclists as it is reputed as one of the most grueling climbs of the Tour de France.  Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux’s 100KM route courses over 5167 meters or 16,952 feet of elevation change largely along rock or talus strewn paths.  The semi-self supported course starts and finishes in the lovely village of Gigondas.

Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux is well organized and supported.  Starting with their simple yet effective web site, the Rotary Club and their supporters put together a great event.  Registration was possible on-line and cost 80 Euro (85 Euro after 30 April); the pasta party cost 10 Euro.  Registration costs included a race starter kit, support at the aid stations/check points, a starter and finisher tee-shirt with the later awarded if you “survive” the race’s twenty-four hours.

Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux includes three events – the primary 100KM course; a Raid Course at 56KM and a relay course of 100KM.  Race headquarters is located in the Gigondas Community Center with final race check-in located in the adjacent fire department building.  Race participant billeting is available in an adjacent youth hostel for an additional limited fee.  Final race check in was possible on 18 May, 1400 – 2200 and on 19 May, 0300 – 0400.  I did my final check in on 18 May at 1800.  When checking in be prepared to provide a French Sport License, some form of identification card or provide a 50 Euro deposit.  This “deposit” is linked to your starter number and assures that runners account for themselves throughout the entire event.  Final check in included verification of registration; distribution of the race starter packet; inspection of required equipment and notes on course changes.  All very straight forward and easy even when conducted in broken French and English.  For the 2012 race I did not stick around for the race briefing (it is conducted only in French) or the Pasta Party.

Le Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux starts at approximately 0430 on Saturday morning providing runners twenty-four hours to complete the course.  The Rotary Club offers a runners’ breakfast starting at 0330 Saturday morning.  I arrived at about 0345 had a couple of cups of coffee; greeted a couple of friends and checked through the starter chutes at 0400.  Final check-in through the starter chutes was somewhat chaotic.  If you’re running the race just line up adjacent to your series of start numbers and walk through.

Following the absolute final check in via the starter chutes the racers all lined up headed up hill (smile) for the start.  The heavens smiled upon 119 of us and shared a bit of rain from 0415 – 0430.  It was nice to get this out of the way as the rest of the day was to prove absolutely stunning with lots of sunshine.

Details of the event and my experiences will be forthcoming in my next post.

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 After Action Review

This portion of the Hexenstieg 2012 race report is focused on after action type thoughts, ideas and issues.  I’m going to bounce around a bit, but want to share these thoughts.

Preparation – Was I prepared for the 200KM of the Hexenstieg?  This is a tough question to answer. My results in finishing indicate that I was in fact at least minimally physically ready.  I do however consider myself a very juvenile 100 miler having only completed two.  I know that I could have and will increase the number of endurance training events I perform.  I am going to continue to extend my shorter runs to a regular minimum of 13KM and tie in at least one four to six hour run per month.  Leading up to the Hexer I only got in two of these if you discount the 2012 Brocken Challenge and the Saaletal Marathons.  I am pleased with the training miles I’ve put in the bank over the past year or so.  I could not have completed the Hexer without them.

There are some wider lessons I’m studying when I compare the Hexer at 200KM and 4,400 meters of elevation change with the UTMB at 166KM and 10,000 meters of elevation change.  The Hexer allowed 48 hours for completion while the UTMB only grants 46.  UTMB check point cut off times were my undoing in 2011; albeit they were compressed because of the late start.  I’m thrilled to get another hundred miler in for the experience, but recognize that I must increase my pace all around in order to work in some sleep and rest periods for the UTMB in 2013.  I think I’ll work to complete one or two additional one hundred milers prior to attempting next year’s UTMB.

Diet and Fueling – I am still refining my running diet.  The week prior to the Hexer I specifically carbo loaded.  Doing so worked well.  During the event I used GU normal and Roctane gels,  a mix of various energy and snickers bars, and the fruits, crackers, and odd meal that were available over the trail.  I had packed tortillas spread with peanut butter and jelly, but did not eat them as I got extremely burned out on sweets.  I’ve got to experiment with some non-sweet food sources, perhaps salty potatoes.  I tried eating a packet of peanut butter and crackers.  I got them down with a bit of difficulty.  With a dry mouth and on the go they are tough to consume.  At about 100KM I was burned out on the energy bars and sweets I had with me and forced myself to choke down gels to keep energy and caffeine in my tank.  A week after the event I still don’t know if I can eat an energy bar or snickers without retching.  I found that my beverage selection worked well during the Hexer.  I used a combination of Gatorade and Hammer Perpetuem Caffé Latte.  I carried the Gatorade in my pack bladder and the Perpetuem in waist bottles.  I mixed up two bottles of Succeed’s Clip 2, but found it hard to get down.  I’m going to give it another go at the Grand Raid Dentelles Ventoux.  Caffeine played a critical role in my fueling strategy.  Its use is something I have to play with a bit.  I overdosed on caffeine at the ThueringenULTRA two years ago and have underdosed during other events.  Going into the Hexer I reduced my caffeine intake a week prior to the race.  Unlike the Brocken Challenge of 2012 I did not eliminate it from my diet the week prior, but cut down to a cup of coffee in the morning each day.  This seemed to work well going in to the Hexer.  I think that the key to caffeine use is gaining a specific understanding of its impact on your body and outlook.  During the Hexer I found that if I used a GU Roctane gel about ever 2.5 to three hours and sipped on the Perpetuem I gained a positive impact from it and could actually feel the waves of “well being” flowing from the caffeine’s use.  I mentioned the Succeed S!Caps I had with me in Part I of this report.  They are a great tool and with the exception of winter events I always carry a packet of them with me.

Gear – Like just about every other race I’ve participated in I carried way too much gear during the Hexer.  My Nathan HPL 579 pack which was discontinued by Nathan is a great, well fitting pack.  Its downside is that it affords the opportunity to carry way too much stuff.  I plan to work on cutting back what I’m carrying with me especially since I’ll likely be forced to go to a smaller pack when this one falls apart.  I followed Micha’s advice leading up the Hexer and started out with the UTMB packing list.  Given that aid stations were anywhere from 20 – 38KM apart during the Hexer I carried at least eight energy bars, eight servings of drink mix and other assorted foods.  At our first drop bag I dropped off the pair of long running tights I carried, the extra tee-shirt and watch cap.  I maintained my trekking poles, gloves, North Face jacket, gloves, sunglasses and first aid kit throughout the race.  I used all of these over various portions of the route and feel that they are a must particularly when running in the Harz or over similar terrain. 

Foot Care/Blister Management – Wow!  This is a tough one as I’m still feeling their impact.  I’m going to have to do some further experimentation on this topic.  I don’t think that the blisters I gained were a result of my shoes, North Face Single Tracks, as I had worn them during training, and the Saaletal Marathon.  I wore a pair of CEP compression socks for the first time during an actual event; had worn them a couple of times in training with no issues.  I do however think that the blisters I gained were caused by my socks.  Andrea Möhr recommended short socks with tube style compression sleeves.  I’ve used that combination before with a pair of compression tubes I made myself and will revert back to this practice for my next event.  Over the course of the Hexer I treated my feet with Moleskin on two occasions.  While working on the blisters I did not think that they were in a condition where I should lance, drain and bandage them.  This occurred much later.  I probably should have stopped and drained them when they had fully formed rather than continuing to run on them.  Tough call – blisters won’t kill you, but they sure can help your mind wonder to places you definitely should not go when running an endurance event.  If you are managing blisters or other irritating injuries you’ve got to make a decision on what to do with them.  For me it took a deliberate decision to recognize them, but set them aside as something that was not going to be a factor in any decisions to withdraw from the race.

Mental Anchors – There is absolute truth in this statement:  “Mental fortitude is more important than physical endurance”.  If you’re going to run out beyond the marathon distance you need to recognize that; embrace it; meditate on it; fully comprehend it.  That is probably the greatest lesson I learned while running the Hexenstieg Ultra.  The other ultra events I’ve participated in to this point have not taken me to the limits of my mental fortitude.  Yes, they have tested my physical endurance, but the Hexer truly tested my mental fortitude.  I think keys to success here rest in making the decision; you’re either going to run the race, or not.  I found tricks in maintaining my forward movement by framing different legs of the event (OK, the next leg is 38KM – Let me break that down into bite sized junks and I can certainly do this!  When is the next aid station?  What terrain features are between us and its location?  Ten kilometers of climbing and then coasting downhill…).  George Sheehan’s thought rings true yet again, “It’s very hard in the beginning to understand that the whole idea is not to beat the other runners.  Eventually you learn that the competition is against the little voice inside you that wants you to quit.”

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 Part IV

After passing through the finish line Andrea and Norbert Möhr passed us off to the medics that were on site.  Micha you thought of everything!  Although I could not complain about my health condition, other than wanting someone to drain my blisters it was nice to go through this formality.  The lead medic briefed us on our post-race medical requirements; they would check our vitals, once now and then thirty minutes later; and address any medical issues we had.  Temperature, blood pressure and heart rate were all in order; and I grabbed a beer and headed up to take a shower.

I have an issue that I want to speak with a doctor about to gain some advice and insight on.  Don’t know if anyone else experiences this sensation, but I’ve found nothing on it in my readings and study of ultrarunning.  This effect generally occurs after running 100 or more kilometers.  When I arrived in my room at the Harzer-Hof I dropped my race pack, had a long draw on my beer and began to come down.  As I came down I experienced a bone shaking chill where my entire body went into the shakes.  I jumped in the shower and cranked it as hot as it would go.  I got my shakes under control; got dressed and went down to have my vitals taken again and my blisters worked on.  I’ll come back to my issue of chills in a minute.

After having my vitals checked again, which were normal.  I talked with a couple of folks and passed on having any dinner.  Stephan had again set up another super meal for us.  I told Micha that I was going to bed and went back upstairs.  It didn’t take me long to get under the sheets or fall asleep, but as I did I recognized the second phase of the sensation I have following an ultra – my temperature seemed to sky rocket.

My face was flushed and I appeared to have a fever only in the upper part of my body.  My body swung between a burning flush and deep chills.  I ignored both and fell into a deep sleep.  An hour or two later I woke up fully bathed in sweat with my tee-shirt soaked through.  Fortunately I had another tee-shirt to sleep in and switched shirts at about 2330.  After changing shirts and going to the bathroom I returned to bed and slept in a deep, dark sleep until my alarm went off at 0625.

I got up on Monday morning feeling refreshed from the sleep, but deeply tired; packed my things and went down to have breakfast.  Again Stephan took care of us with a wonderful breakfast buffet.  It was super to chat with the other runners and be back within the lifecycle of the rest of the world.
Following breakfast Micha conducted an informal awards ceremony which I almost missed as I was outside talking.  After the awards ceremony it was time to say farewell and make my way back home.  What a fantastic weekend and race!  Count me in for 2013!

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 Part II

After about an hour’s break Günter, Matthias and I set off without Nic for the Hexentanzplatz a much celebrated place located on the top of a lovely little hill.  The Hexentanzplatz (Witches’ Dance Floor) rests on a plateau at 454M above the Bode Gorge.  As legend has it, the Hexentanzplatz was the site of old Saxon Cult celebrations of the Forest and Mountain Goddesses.  Following the taming of the region by Christian Franks the area became known as the Hexentanzplatz.  The legend also holds that the dance floor was guarded by Frank soldiers who were chased off by Saxons dressed as witches and riding on broomsticks.  This Saxon victory over the Franks is celebrated to this day on and around the first of May.  In fact, 10,000 visitors were expected on the Hexentanzplatz on 1 May 2012.

As you can tell by the Hexentanzplatz link above normal people travel to the Hexentanzplatz via cable car to view the panoramic views and the Bode Gorge.  Thanks to Micha this was not in our cards this evening although we did have a brief opportunity to enjoy the view at the White Deer stamp station before making our way down to Treseburg and back into the Bode Gorge.

Our path into the Bode Gorge saw us rapidly losing any remaining daylight on a long hot Saturday.  While in the Gorge we got to again enjoy the frequent ups and downs of the trail and a slow ascent back up to our next rest stop at Königshütte.  Although we were slowly gaining elevation I was not feeling the elation of doing so.  This phase of the event probably saw me at my lowest point mentally during the entire race.  I was burned out from the heat of the day; had now been running for more than twenty-four hours with no sleep; and my tank was running very low on food.  The Brandenburgers and I had spent most of the day talking and enjoying the event.  At this point everyone was worn and very quite – we were running yet sleeping on our feet.  So, picture if you will three dudes running through the deep of the night.  It was very quite…  I began to hear something rustling to our right about ten meters from our path.  It seemed that whatever was making this noise was moving along with us.  I pictured Indians riding along side waiting to ride in for the kill.  “Wow”, I thought, whatever that is, it is not breaking contact with us – it continues to run alongside.  I asked Matthias and Günter what they thought it was and we were interrupted with a very loud and ugly sounding “SNORT”.  Blood now rushing; kick up the adrenaline.  That is a fooging boar!  Matthias shouted “RUN” and we took off at a sprint.  I shined my hand held flashlight over to where I thought the wild pigs were moving and caught several piglets in its beam. 

Adrenaline kicks are great in the short term.  They do however leave you wasted over time.  After running down from Boar Hill approaching the aid station at Treseburg I slipped back into a deeper rut.  I was burned out and the single blister I had identified at Thale seemed as if it was growing and was shooting sharp signals up my leg.  My focus and commitment to complete the Hexenstieg began to slip anchor and quickly drift…

After what seemed an eternity we finally made it to the aid station at Altenbrak.  I moved beyond the refreshment area and went immediately to work on the blister on my left foot.  Micha (I don’t know how he managed to be at virtually every aid station.) came over to check on me.  I told him that all was good (I lied) and that you don’t die from blisters.  After getting bandaged up again we set out into the night for Königshütte.  Curses!  

The next 24 odd kilometers are a deep dark blur for me.  The devil got on my back and road me; spinning things in my head.  I slipped into a deep pool of self-pity and bad decision making.  As we coursed ever upwards towards Königshütte I cursed myself for signing up for this race.  No, blisters won’t kill you, but they certainly provide a great opportunity to dwell on your misery.  While focused on the one on my left foot a new one developed in the same location on my right.  Matthias began to hallucinate and told us that a lighted long jump ski ramp was coming up on our right.  It was actually the moon shining through the clouds.  I really began to shut down on Matthias and Günter not talking with either.

Dick Collins advice, “Decide before the race the conditions that will cause you to stop and drop out.  You don’t want to be out there saying, “Well gee, my leg hurts, I’m a little dehydrated, I’m sleepy, I’m tired, and it’s cold and windy,” and talk yourself into quitting.  If you are making a decision based on how you feel at that moment, you will probably make the wrong decision” is spot on.  I had read and considered this passage many times.  I had not considered the fact that running an ultra like the Hexenstieg takes a very solid personal commitment to this principal.  In fact, I’d never been to this point in my thinking before.  Sure, other races have sucked, but never like this. 

Between Altenbrak and Königshütte I abandoned all principals and commitment to finishing the Hexenstieg and decided to quit, or at least go down for a while and sleep.  That’s what my mind told me, but the devil that was now riding me like a cheap circus ride told me that it was “OK to tell the Brandenburger that you are going to get some sleep.”  Once they’re gone you can sleep some more and drop because you know that there are no vehicles scheduled to leave Königshütte unless it’s an emergency, you take a cab, or you wait it out until the morning by which time you will have missed every opportunity to finish.  So quit.  It’s all good!  This ultra racing thing is stupid anyway.  You don’t need to prove that you can do this to anyone.” 

We each rolled into Königshütte in dark spirits.  When we got into the community building there were people crashed and sleeping everywhere.  “This is what I’m talking about!”  The race volunteers were again superb.  As we sat down at the first table in sight there were several of them asking what food and drink they could bring us?  I had an alcohol free beer and a cup of coffee at the same time; I don’t recall what plate (noodles or potatoes) I ate.  Günter fell asleep eating his meal while Matthias rummaged through his drop bag and then fell asleep.  My tee-shirt was soaked from sweating and by now I was wearing a wind breaker; I figured what the hell and also went to sleep.  In the back of my mind I was looking to drop and hoping that Günter and Matthias would go down for a while then I could reconsider everything.

After twenty minutes or so Matthias asked us if we were ready to go.  Sluggishly Günter wondered off to the bathroom.  It was here that I told Matthias that I was going to drop.  My hope was that he would encourage me not to; I was prepared with a number of good solid arguments; instead he simply asked if my blisters were going to be a real issue.  Günter came back and I told him while Matthias was away from the table.  He told me that I was not going to drop and that I needed to get myself together.  Period – easy as that.  I wondered off to the bathroom to actually test my feet and gather my thoughts.  While sitting in the bathroom I thought about Dick Collins’ advice and decided to head back out, “Shit this is going to suck!”.  I made my way back to our table and told the Brandenburgers that I was back in the game, but that before I made my final decision I wanted their assurance that I would not be a burden to them, nor hold them back from finishing.  Great guys!  They told me that we were in this thing together and we were going to finish it together no matter what.  This commitment to one another, to this event blew me away.  This is what ultrarunning is about.

With that and a final slug of coffee and a GU we headed out in the night towards Torfhaus...   

Hexenstieg Ultra 2012 Part I

This tough 200KM trail race took place along the famous or infamous Harzer-Hexenstieg (Harz Witch’s Trail) in the Harz Mountains of Central Germany from 28  - 29 April 2012.  The route passed from Osterode over the Brocken to Thale and back via a circuitous route home to Osterode.  The Hexenstieg contains significant elevation change of 4000 meters traveling through deep forests and into sub-alpine zones near the Brocken.  The Hexenstieg courses over well developed hiking trails (65%) and single track (25%) with the remaining 10% of the course traveling along farm or other low use roads and paths.  Navigation over the course was facilitated by hiking trail marking, GPS, maps and the road book.  There were almost no race specific markings.  Weather conditions on race weekend were as anticipated mixed with rain Saturday night, an icy wind on the Brocken and very hot (38C/100F) weather Saturday afternoon.

Nine months after my first 100 miler I felt nervous, but ready to take on what was to prove to be an exceptionally challenging, yet rewarding 125 mile ultra.

After getting up at 0600 on Friday morning, having breakfast with the girls and making final arrangements I left for the Hotel Harzer Hof in Osterode at about 0830.  I was pleasantly surprised at the arrangements Michael Frenz had made for us with Stephan Zirbus at the Harzer Hof – we had the whole place to ourselves and it was to serve as race headquarters and home away from home for the next couple of days.

Micha exceeded my wildest expectations in the set up he had developed leading up the race – a private event became a professional affair.  He had established a race headquarters with maps, instructions, sign in rosters and a super drop bag with special goodies from a number of great sponsors including WAT Läuft (Thanks Rolli!).  At 1600 Stephan and his crew served a delicious vegan or meat eater meal of which I had two portions of the vegan pasta.  Like military clockwork Micha had us in our places at 1700 for an in-depth race briefing which included a discussion of how he saw the race unfolding, a detailed description of the course and safety issues.  During this briefing he introduced the medical and massage teams that were on tap to support us.  First class pre-race affairs!  

Following dinner and the race briefing we took a quick group photo and then Micha released us to go prepare and rest prior to the midnight kickoff.  After completing the final preparation of my run kit I found it impossible to sleep during our down time.  Things were simply too loud around the hotel and I was too excited about the race.  If you’re a racer you know the deal.  Your nerves are on edge; you worry about your training and health leading up to the event; and doubt begins to creep in.  I meditated a bit and tried to relax.

At 0000 on 28 April the Hexenstieg Ultra kicked off from the Hotel Harzer Hof with twenty-eight runners.  Nineteen of this group would finish the course.

From Osterode we traveled through the night to the first rest stop at Torfhaus (33KM).  Although the elevation change was not sharp during this period it was there over the long run.  The trails were extremely dark and a light rain was falling on us most of the night.  My mind often wondered to J.R.R. Tolkien and his portrayal of many of the scenes within his stories.  It was dark (I turned off my headlamp for short period and could not see my hand in front of my face) and it was spooky.  During this leg of the race the pack of runners had spread out as it inevitably does.  Fortunately I had settled into a pace with a couple of other people including Jorg Finkbeiner.  Jorg and I had met at final registration; he is from the area where I live so we had some things in common and wound up running together to the Brocken Ramp.  At one point Jorg and I were moving over a shoulder width path that had boulders, stones, and moss all over it.  The rain had made the area extremely slippery.  I slipped and fell backwards landing on my back.  With a loud "Fook" and a short moment to regroup;  I quickly gathered my lamp and senses and was thankful that I had not injured myself this early in the race.

Following a quick break at Torfhaus our path led us higher quickly moving to the unique Brocken environment.  For a Texan it was unusual to see patches of snow on the ground this late in the spring.  I got lost in the beauty of the environment listening to the forest awake; wondering about wild boar and looking forward to my second visit to the Brocken this year.  After a brief break on the way up the Brocken Ramp to answer the call of nature I was excited to arrive on the summit (42KM or the first marathon distance of several for the day) at 0630.  The timing was perfect for an early breakfast and again Micha had taken care of everything having coordinated to have the Brocken Wirt open and ready with hot coffee and pastries.

Jorg and I split paths at the Brocken Summit as I wanted to get back out on the trail.  I wrapped up breakfast; refilled water bottles and shifted my load around a bit.  As I was getting ready to leave another group of three were setting out and tentatively welcomed me into their group.  Because of the lack of race trail marking I felt it critical to run with a partner or group.  This group “The Brandenburgers” were to be my traveling partners for the next day and a half.

Over the course of the next 158 kilometers I was to get to know and come to depend upon this merry band of Brandenburgers.  The group was made up of Günter Janiszewski, Matthias Muhs and Nic Rohman.  Unfortunately, Nic was not to finish the Hexenstieg.  Before I go on let me tell you briefly about the term Brandenburgers.  The Brandenburgers refers to the region where this group is from, Brandenburg.  They too are a world and culture unto themselves (smile).  Although at first we weighed one another out as most competitors do and there was not a lot of talking at least with me because I was an outsider to this tight group of friends, we slowly warmed to one another and spent hours talking about, well..., everything!  That, is but one thing that makes a race of this nature so incredibly wonderful.  (I’m usually a runner that has his iPod on the entire course of an event.  I didn’t use either of the two I brought with me.)  

From the Brocken Summit we set out for the next aid station at Königshütte at Kilometer 66.  As I mentioned above the day started out overcast, windy, and cold.  This was to rapidly change as we traveled with the sun coming out and basting us for hours.  I was glad to have had the foresight to have carried some Succeed tablets with me.  Succeed S!Caps are the shit when you’re running in hot weather.  They assist in the prevention of both dehydration and cramping.  And no, that was not a paid endorsement.  They are simply good stuff! 

Over the route to Königshütte we crossed the course of the Harzquerung.  It was fun to pass through this area as one of the Harzquerung aid stations was setting up as we passed and wondered what in the heck runners were doing out so early.  Like many others over the weekend, they too were a bit surprised to hear that we were running a round trip of the Hexenstieg.  Our course took us onwards to the aid station at Rübeland, through the Bode Valley and onward to the half-way point and aid station in the Sport Center in Thale.  The toughest part of the outbound course was between Treseburg and Teufelsbrücke.  Although “only” six kilometers this portion of the route was characterized by a path that went up and down (constantly), was strewn with rocks and talus and contained the pleasant surprise shown below.  Great stuff Micha!!!

At the Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge) we made our way to Thale and the half way point.  If you’re ever in Thale don’t ask for instructions to the Community Sport Center or anything else for that matter.  No one knows anything in this town that time seems to have gotten stuck in time immediately following the German Reunification.  It looks very much like what I recall the rest of the region looking like in 1990.  Very odd...

It was great to finally land at the Sport Center in Thale.  It was as if a weight had been taken off of my shoulders.  We had just traveled 100KM in the blazing sun; I had had it with the energy drinks, gels and bars I was carrying and was looking forward to something decent to eat, a chance to take off my shoes and relax a bit.

I want to pause a moment in this chronology and specifically talk about the race volunteers that supported this race.  This was the most amazing group of volunteers I’ve ever run with.  They truly made this race happen often staying up as long as we did and catering to our every need.  The group was made up of family members and friends of runners that were on the course.  When you arrived at an aid station you were treated like family and a VIP.  I could not have completed this race without your support.

In the Bode Valley Nic had run out a bit in front of us so he arrived in Thale somewhat earlier than Matthias, Günter and I.  At Thale we each had access to a second drop bag which was a huge factor for all.   In hindsight I wish I had packed a towel like everyone else because there were showers available which most folks took advantage of.  While in Thale I enjoyed a plate of pasta a whole lot of juice, water, and cola.  After eating a bit and restocking my running pack I took time to bandage up the first of what were to become five significant blisters.  Although in Thale my blister was causing me no real issues it was a warning of things to come...